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The cosmetic industry uses the term ‘cosmeceutical’ to refer to a cosmetic formula that has drug-like applicative advantages. Many marine algae are rich in biologically active components that have been reported to exhibit strong benefits to the skin, mainly for photoprotection, skin whitening, moisturization, anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, antioxidants, and antimicrobial uses.
For the preparation of cosmeceutical products, macroalgae-derived compounds have been noted as being of significant importance [19]. Polysaccharides have a great role in cosmetics including in moisturizers, emulsifiers, wound healing agents, and thickening agents [20]. Fernando et al. [21] have reported anti-inflammation activity of Fucoidan from Chnoospora minima (Phaeophyceae) by inhibition of Lipopolysaccharides induced nitric oxide production, inducible nitric oxide productions, Cyclooxygenase-2, and Prostaglandin E2 levels in an experimental study by targeting RAW macrophages. Likewise, Ariede et al. [22], Wang et al. [23], and Teas and Irhimeh, [24] reported beneficial activities of Fucus vesiculosus (Figure 1a) (Phaeophyceae) derived polysaccharides such as anti-aging, anti-melanogenic, anti-cancer, and antioxidant activity by stimulating collagen production, tyrosinase inhibition, decreasing melanoma growth and by preventing oxidation formation, respectively. In addition, the anti-inflammation activity of sulphated polysaccharide from Padina tetrastromatica (Phaeophyceae) by COX-2 and iNOS inhibitions in an experimental model of Paw edema in rats [25]. Moreover, Khan et al. [26] reported the anti-inflammation activity of polyunsaturated fatty acids derived from Undaria pinnatifida (Figure 1b) (Phaeophyceae) on mouse ear edema and erythema. In vitro, the antioxidant activity of methanolic extracts from Osmundaria obtusilo and Palisada flagellifera (Rhodophyta) was studied by DPPH, ABTS, metal chelating, Folin ciocalteau, and beta-carotene bleaching assays [27][28]. Phenolic compound Sargachromanol E revealed antiaging activities from Sargassum horneri (Phaeophyceae) by inhibition of matric metalloprotein expression on UVA irradiated dermal fibroblast [29].
Marine macroalgae derived polysaccharides are well known for their biological benefits. The presence of polysaccharides (ulvan, fucoidan, alginate, laminarin, carrageenan, sulphated polysaccharides, agar, and agarose) in macroalgae and noted their cosmeceutical benefits. Other examples of macroalgae derived polysaccharides and their cosmetic benefits are presented in Table 1.
No. | Name of Macroalgae | Polysaccharides | Cosmetic Benefits | References |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Ulva lactuca (Figure 1n) (C) |
SP (Ulvan) | Antioxidant, Moisturizer, Photoprotective | [30] |
Neopyropia yezoensis (R) | Porphyran | Antiinflammation | [31][32] | |
2 | Porphyridium sp.* (R), Costaria costata (P), Ulva lactuca (Figure 1n) (C) |
Sulphated polysaccharides | Antioxidant, Anti-inflammatory, Antiaging |
[33] |
3 | Fucus vesiculosus (Figure 1a) | Fucoidans | Antiaging, Antiwrinkle | [34] |
4 | Ascophyllum nododum (Figure 1o), Chnoospora minima, Sargassum fusiforme, Saccharina japonica, Sargassum polycystum, S. vachellianum, S. hemiphyllum (P) |
Fucoidans | Photoprotection, Anti photoaging Anti-inflammatory, Anti-elastase, Anti-collagenase, Skin whitening |
[35][36][37][38] |
5 | Fucus vesiculosus (Figure 1a) (P) |
Fucoidan | Anticoagulant Antioxidant, Enhancer of Skin fibroblast formation | [39] |
6 | Neoporphyra haitanensis (R) | Porphyran | Antioxidant | [40][41] |
7 | Saccharina longicruris (P) | Laminaran | Anti-inflammation, Antioxidant, Reconstruction of dermis | [42][43] |
8 | Saccharina longicruris (P) | Galactofucans | Enhance fibroblast formation, Increase synthesis of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) complex and collagen-1 | [44] |
9 | Eucheuma denticulatum (Figure 1p) (R) |
Carrageenan | Antioxidant, photoprotection | [45] |
10 | Gelidium sp. (R) | Agar | Thickener | [46] |
11 | Ascophyllum sp., Fucus sp., Sargassum sp., Undaria sp. (P) |
Laminaran | Anticellulite | [47] |
12 | Saccharina cichorioides (P) | Fucoidan | Anti-atopic dermatitis | [48] |
13 | Corallina officinalis (R) | Sulphated polysaccharides | Antioxidant | [49] |
14 | Ulva australis (C) | Ulvan | Antiaging | [50][51] |
15 | Acanthophora muscoides (R) | Sulphated polysaccharides-Carrageenan | Anticoagulant, Antinociceptive, antiinflammation, Gel agents | [52][53][54] |
17 | Chondrus crispus (R) | Carrageenan | Gel and Thickening agent, Skin moisturizer | [55] |
18 | Ulva rigida, U. pseudorotundata (C) |
Sulphated polysaccharides | Antioxidant, Chelators, Gel agents, Moisturizer | [56] |
19 | Ascophyllum nodosum (Figure 1o) (P) |
Fucoidan | Anti-inflammation, Antiviral, Antiaging, Anti elastase, Photoprotective, Tyrosinase inhibition, Anticellulite | [57] |
20 | Gracilaria sp. (R) | Agar | Thickener | [58] |
21 | Padina boergesenii (P) | Sulphated polysaccharides | Formation of collagen | [59] |
22 | Macrocystis sp., Lessonia sp., Laminaria sp. (P) | Alginate | Gelling and Stabilizing agent, Moisturizer, Chelator | [60][61] |
24 | Kjellmaniella crassifolia | Fucoidan | Antiaging, Antiwrinkle | [62] |
25 | Brown algae (P) | Alginate | Thickening agent Gelling agent |
[63] |
27 | Sargassum vachellianum (P) |
Polysaccharides | Skin moisturizer and protectors | [64] |
28 | Fucus vesiculosus (Figure 1a), Laminaria digitata (Figure 1f), Undaria pinnatifida (Figure 1b) (P) |
Fucoidan | Antioxidant, Antiaging, Anticoagulant, Increase skin fibroblast formulation |
[65][66] |
29 | Ascophyllum nodosum (Figure 1o) (P) |
Fucoidan | Anti-elastase, gelatinase A inhibition, Inhibition of interleukin-1 beta in fibroblast cells | [67] |
30 | Ecklonia cava (P) | Phlorotannins | Photoprotectors against UV-B | [68][69] |
31 | Neoporphyra haitanensis, Gracilaria chouae, G. blodgetti (R) |
Agar | Antioxidant, Thickeners Antitumor, Radiation protector, Antiaging |
[70][71] |
32 | Turbinaria conoides (P) | Laminarin, Alginate, Fucoidan | Antioxidant | [72] |
No. | Name of Macroalgae | Compounds | Cosmetic Benefits | References |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Scytosiphon lomentaria (P) | Amino acids | Antioxidant, Radical scavengers, Chelators | [74][75][76] |
2 | Gracilaria vermiculophylla (R) | Porphyra-334, Palythine, Asterina-330, Shinorine | Antioxidant, UV protector | [77] |
3 | Ulva lactuca (Figure 1n) (C), Asparagopsis armata (R) |
MAAs, Amino acids | Antiaging, Anti wrinkles, Improves collagen formation | [78] |
4 | Pelvetia canaliculata (P) |
Amino acids | Antioxidant, Collagen formation, Proteoglycan’s synthesis | [79] |
5 | Gracilaria chilensis, Pyropia plicata, Champia novae-zelandiae (R) | MAAs | Anti UV, Antioxidant | [80] |
6 | Ulva lactuca (Figure 1n) (C) |
Arginine, Aspartic acid, Glycine | Enhance collagen and elastin synthesis | [80] |
7 | Porphyra umbilicalis (Figure 1i) (R) |
MAAs, (2:1 ratio of Porphyra-334 and Shinorine) | Antiaging | [81] |
8 | Palmaria palmata (Figure 1g), Catenella caespitosa (R) |
MAAs | UV and UV-A protection | [82] |
9 | Porphyra sp., Catenella caespitosa (R), Padina crassa, Desmarestia aculeata (P) |
MAAs such as Aminocyclohexenone-type, Aminocyclohexene imine-type | Photoprotection, Antiaging, Anti-inflammatory, Antioxidant | [83] |
10 | Curdiea racovitzae, Iridaea cordata (R) | Palythine, asterina-330 | Antioxidant, Anti-UV, Antiaging | [84] |
11 | Porphyra sp. (R) | Protein and hydrolysates | Moisture retention capacity and viscosifying agent | [85][86] |
12 | Palmaria sp., Porphyra sp. (R) | High amounts of Glycine and Arginine | Natural moisturizing factor | [87] |
13 | Chondrus crispus, Mastocarpus stellatus, Palmaria palmata (Figure 1g) (R) | Palythine, Usujirene, Porphyra-334, Shinorine, Asterina, palythinol | Antioxidant, Anti-proliferation | [88] |
14 | Pelvetia canaliculata (P) |
Amino acids | Antioxidant, Collagen synthesis, Proteoglycan synthesis stimulation | [89] |
15 | Laminaria digitata (Figure 1f) (P) | Proteins | Lipolytic | [90] |
16 | Neopyropia yezoensis (R) | Peptide PPy1 | Anti-inflammatory | [91] |
17 | Palmaria palmata (Figure 1g) (R) |
MAAs | UV protector | [92] |
18 | Sargassum polycystum (P) | Amino acids and amines | Anti-melanogenic or skin whitening effect | [93][94][95] |
19 | Porphyra umbilicalis (Figure 1i) (R) |
Porphyra-334, Shinorine | Moisturization, Skin protector, Antiwrinkle, Protect against roughness | [96] |
21 | Porphyra yezoensis f. coreana (R) | Peptides, PYP1-5, porphyra-334 | Enhance Elastin and collagen formation, reduce MMP expression | [96] |
22 | Palmaria palmata (Figure 1g), Porphyra umbilicalis (Figure 1i) (R) |
MAAs | Antiaging, Collagenase inhibition | [97][98] |
No. | Name of Macroalgae | Pigment | Cosmetic Benefits | References |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Sargassum spp. | Carotenoids, Astaxanthin, Beta-carotene, Fucoxanthin | Anticellulite, Antiaging, Antiphotoaging, antioxidant, antiviral | [100] |
2 | Saccharina japonica (P) | Fucoxanthin | Inhibition of tyrosinase and Melanogenesis in UVB irradiated | [101] |
3 | Cladosiphon okamuranus (P) | Fucoxanthin | Antioxidant, DPPH inhibition | [102] |
4 | Neopyropia yezoensis® | Phycoerythrin | Antioxidant, Anticancer, Antiinflammatory | [103] |
5 | Gracilaria gracilis, Porpyridium sp. (R) | Phycobiliprotein pigment such as R-phycoerythrin, Phycocyanin, Allophycocyanins | Antioxidant, Skin whitening activity by Antimelanogenic activity | [104] |
6 | Cladophora glomera®(C) | Chlorophyll a, Chlorophyll b, Chlorophyll c, Chlorophyll d | Antibacterial, Antioxidant, Colorants, Deodorizer | [105][106][107] |
7 | Portieri®p. (R) | Phycobiliproteins, Phycoerythrin, Phycocyanin | Antioxidants, anti-inflammatory, Colorants, Radical scavenger | [107] |
8 | Cladophora glomerata (C) | Chlorophyll | Tissue growth stimulators | [108] |
9 | Neopyropia y®ensis (R) | Porphyran | Antioxidant, Anti-inflammatory | [109] |
10 | U® lactuca (C) | Carotenoids such as astaxanthin, beta-carotene, fucoxanthin, lutein | Anti-inflammatory, Antiaging, Tyrosinase inhibition, Antioxidants, Photoprotective | [106] |
11 | Rhodophyta (R) | Lutein | Skin whitening | [110] |
12 | Paraglossum lancifolium (R) | Lipid soluble pigments such as Xanthophyll and Carotenoids Beta-carotene, Lutein |
Antioxidant, Anti-inflammatory, Antiphotoaging, Photoprotection, Anti-photoaging | [111] |
13 | Undaria pinnatifida (P) | Fucoxanthin | Photoprotective | [112] |
14 | Porphyra sp. (P) | Zeaxanthin, Alpha and beta carotene | Anti-inflammatory, Photoprotection, Antioxidant, Antiaging | [113] |
15 | Gracilaria gracilis (Figure 1k) (R) | Phycobiliproteins (R-phycoerythrin allophycocyanin, Phycocyanin) | Antioxidant | [104] |
16 | Sargassum siliquastrum (P) | Fucoxanthin | Skin protector, Antiphotoaging, Antiwrinkle | [114] |
17 | Ulva lactuca (C) | Zeaxanthin, Neoxanthin, Antheraxanthin, Siphonein, Siphoxanthin, | Photoprotection, Antiphotoaging, Anti-inflammatory | [115] |
18 | Himanthalia elongata (P) | Fucoxanthin extract | Antioxidant | [116] |
19 | Ascophyllum nodosum (P) | Fucoxanthin | Antiagin, Antiwrinkle | [117] |
20 | Fucus vesiculosus (P) | Fucoxanthin | Antioxidant | [118] |
21 | Phaeophyta | Fucoxanthin | Antiphotoaging | [119] |
22 | Sargassum siliquastrum (P) | Fucoxanthin | Anti-melanogenic (skin whitening effect), Antioxidant, Anti-inflammatory | [120] |
23 | Gelidium crinale (R) | Carotenoids | Antioxidant | [121] |
No. | Name of Macroalgae | Phenolic Compound/s | Characterization or Analysis of Phenolic Compounds | References |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Macrocystis pyrifera (P) | Phlorotannins, Phloroeckol, Tetrameric phloroglucinol | Antioxidant, Antidiabetic, Antiaging | [123] |
2 | Ascophyllum nodosum (Figure 1o) (P) |
Ascophyllan | MMP inhibition | [124] |
3 | Cystoseira foeniculacea (P) | Polyphenol | Antioxidant | [125] |
4 | Stephanocystis hakodatensis (P) | Phenol | Antioxidant | [126] |
5 | Ecklonia cava subsp. Stolonifera (P) | Fucofuroeckol-A | Protection against UVB radiation | [127] |
7 | Corallina pilulifera (R) | Phlorotannins | Antiaging, antiinflammatio, antioxidants, antiallergic, UV screens | [128] |
8 | Ishige foliacea (P) | Phlorotannin | Antimelanogenic, inhibition of tyrosinase and melanin synthesis | [129][130] |
10 | Laminaria ochroleuca (P) |
Polyphenol | Antioxidant | [131] |
11 | Caulerpa racemo®(C) | Flavonoids, Hydroquinone, Saponins | Tyrosinase inhibitor | [132] |
12 | Ecklonia cava (P) | Dioxinodehydroeckol | UV B protective | [133] |
13 | Ecklonia cava subsp. stolonifera (P) | Phlorotannins | Inhibition of Matric metalloproteins (MMPs), Antiwrinkle, Tyrosinase inhibitor, Skin whitener | [134] |
14 | Saccharina latissima (P) | Phenol | Antioxidant | [135] |
15 | Ecklonia cava (P) | Dieckol | Anti-adipogenesis | [136] |
16 | Ecklonia cava subsp. kurome (P) | Phlorotannin | Anti-inflammatory, Hyaluronidase inhibition | [137] |
17 | Caulerp®p. (C) | Flavonoids, Phenols | Tyrosinase inhibitors | [138] |
18 | Rhodomela conf®oides (R) | Polyphenol, Bromophenol | Antioxidant, Antimicrobial, DPPH inhibition | [139] |
19 | Eisenia bicyclis, Ecklonia Cava subsp. stolonifera (P) | Eckol | Anti-inflammation, Skin whitening activity | [140][141] |
20 | Schizymenia dubyi (Figure 1c) (R) | Phenol | Anti-melanogenic, Tyrosinase inhibition | [142] |
21 | Cystoseira compressa (P) |
Fuhalol | Antioxidant | [143] |
Cystoseira compressa (P) |
Fuhalol | Antioxidant | [143] | |
22 | Ecklonia cava (P) | dieckol | Promotes hair growth | [144] |
23 | Fucus vesiculosus (Figure 1a), Gongolaria nodicaulis, Ericaria selaginoides, Gongolaria usneoides, Ecklonia cava (P) | Phlorotannins such as Fucophloroethol, Fucodiphloroethol, Fucotripholoroethol, Phlorofucofuroeckol bieckol or dieckol | Skin whitening effect, Antioxidant, Anti-inflammatory, Antihistamine, Photoprotection | [145] |
24 | Ascophyllum nodosum (Figure 1o) (P) |
Phlorotannins, Eckols, Fucols, Phlorethols | Inhibition of tyrosinase, Anti-inflammation, Anti UV, Anti-allergic, Chelators, Antiaging, Hyaluronidase inhibitor | [145] |
25 | Meristotheca dakarensis (R) | Glucosaminoglycan | Anti-aging, Collagen synthesis | [12] |
26 | Gongolaria nodicaulis, Ericaria selaginoides, Gongolaria usneoides (P) |
Phlorotannins such as bioeckol, 7-phloroeckol, phlorofucofuroeckol, fucophloroethol | Anti-inflammation, Antioxidant, Anti-aging, Inhibition of hyaluronidase | [145] |
27 | Fucus spiralis (P) |
Phlorotannins | Inhibition of lipid peroxidation, hyaluronidase inhibitor, antiaging, antiwrinkle, Anti-inflammatory, Antiwrinkle | [145] |
28 | Ecklonia cava, Ecklonia cava subsp. stolonifera (P) | Eckol, 6,6′-bieckol, doeckol, Phlorofucofuroeckol-A, 8,8′-bieckol | Anti-allergic | [146] |
29 | Eisenia bicyclis, Ecklonia cava subsp. stolonifera | Phlorofucofuroeckol A | Hepatoprotective, Anti-tyrosinase | [147][148] |
30 | Eisenia arborea, Ecklonia bicyclis (P) | Phlorotannins | Anti-inflammation, Hyaluronidase inhibitor, antiwrinkle | [149] |
31 | Eisenia arborea (P) | Phlorofucofuroeckol A | Anti-allergic | [150] |
32 | Ascophyllum nodosum (Figure 1o), Fucus serratus, Himanthalia elongata (Figure 1h), Sargassum muticum (P) |
Phlorotannins | Antioxidant, Antibacterial, antiviral, photoprotection, Anti-inflammatory | [151][152][153] |
33 | Ecklonia cava (P) | Eckols, fucols, phlorethols, Fuhalols, fucophlorethol | Anti-aging, Anti-inflammation, Hyaluronidase inhibitor, antiallergic, UV protector | [153] |
No. | Name of Macroalgae | Fatty acid | Cosmetic Benefits | References |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Chondrus crispus (R) |
EPA, AA, DHA, GLA, LA, Palmitic acid, Oleic acid | Antiallergic, Anti-aging, Anti-inflammation, Antiwrinkle, Antimicrobial, Emollients, | [154] |
2 | Undaria pinnatifida (Figure 1b) (P) |
PUFA | Anti-inflammatory | [154] |
3 | Ulva lactuca (Figure 1n) (P) |
Fatty acid such as C18 and C16 type | In-vitro and in-vivo Nrf2-ARE activation, Cell protective, Antioxidant | [155] |
4 | Phaeophyceae (Brown algae) (P) |
Unsaturated Fatty acids | Antioxidant | [156] |
5 | Ulva lactuca (Figure 1n) (P) |
Lipopeptides | Inhibition of elastase, enhance collagen synthesis | [157] |
6 | Himanthalia elongata (Figure 1h) (P) |
Fatty acids and volatile compounds | Antioxidant, Antimicrobial | [158] |
7 | Porphyridium purpureum (R) | Eicosapentaenoic acid, Docosahexaenoic acid, Eicosatetraenoic acid, Polyunsaturated omega-3 fatty acids | Antioxidant, Anti-inflammatory, Anti-photoaging | [159] |
8 | Ulva rigida (C), Gracilaria sp. (R), Fucus vesiculosus (Figure 1a), Saccharina latissima (P) |
Lipidic profile | Antioxidant | [160] |
9 | Sargassum fusiforme (P) | Fucosterol | Protection against photodamage, UVB protector, MMP inhibition, Enhance procollagen formation, Anti-inflammatory | [161][162] |
10 | Gracilariopsis longissima (R), Saccharina japonica (P) | (8E)-10-oxo-8-octadecenoic acid, (E)-9-oxo-10-octadecenoic acid, Myristic acid, Palmitic acid | Anti-inflammatory | [163] |
11 | Silvetia siliquosa (P) | Fucosterol | Antioxidant, Stimulate antioxidant enzymes such as catalase, glutathione peroxidase | [164][165] |
14 | Sargassum fusiforme (P) | Fucosterol | Anti-aging, MMP inhibition | [166] |
15 | Codium fragile (C) | Sterol | Anti-inflammatory | [167] |