Role of Marine Macroalgae in Cosmeceuticals: Comparison
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Please note this is a comparison between Version 2 by Lindsay Dong and Version 1 by Leonel Pereira.

The cosmetic industry uses the term ‘cosmeceutical’ to refer to a cosmetic formula that has drug-like applicative advantages. Many marine algae are rich in biologically active components that have been reported to exhibit strong benefits to the skin, mainly for photoprotection, skin whitening, moisturization, anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, antioxidants, and antimicrobial uses. 

  • seaweeds
  • bioactivity
  • cosmeceuticals
  • skin care
  • anti-inflammatory

1. Introduction

In cosmeceuticals, cosmetic products are a topical combination of cosmetic and pharmaceutical with bioactive molecules to have medicinal or drug-like applications to improve health and texture of skin [1,2]. Due to modernization and skin care attention, cosmetic companies are enlarging gradually each year worldwide. To fulfill the requirements of customers, these cosmetic companies are moving towards unbeatable exploitation of synthetic cosmetics and constituents. Due to the ineffectiveness of synthetic components, it may cumulate in skin and produce toxic effects and may cause harm to healthy skin structure. Hydroxybenzoic acid esters (parabens) reported its adverse effect to the skin as well as increase incidence of malignant melanoma and breast cancer since it is widely used in cosmetic formulations [3]. Another substance is phthalate, which is highly found in different cosmetic formulations that can cause DNA mutations and damage, as found in human male gamete [4,5]. Some of these synthetic chemical compounds can cause detrimental effects in animals such as reduction of sperm counts, changed pregnancy outcomes, congenital disabilities of male genitalia, etc. [6]. As a result, users have changed their liking and selected natural cosmetic products for usage [7]. Hence, the enlarging market for skincare formulations and constant look for an alternative natural constituents led to the production of a different types of cosmeceutical skin products [8].
In cosmeceuticals, cosmetic products are a topical combination of cosmetic and pharmaceutical with bioactive molecules to have medicinal or drug-like applications to improve health and texture of skin [1][2]. Due to modernization and skin care attention, cosmetic companies are enlarging gradually each year worldwide. To fulfill the requirements of customers, these cosmetic companies are moving towards unbeatable exploitation of synthetic cosmetics and constituents. Due to the ineffectiveness of synthetic components, it may cumulate in skin and produce toxic effects and may cause harm to healthy skin structure. Hydroxybenzoic acid esters (parabens) reported its adverse effect to the skin as well as increase incidence of malignant melanoma and breast cancer since it is widely used in cosmetic formulations [3]. Another substance is phthalate, which is highly found in different cosmetic formulations that can cause DNA mutations and damage, as found in human male gamete [4][5]. Some of these synthetic chemical compounds can cause detrimental effects in animals such as reduction of sperm counts, changed pregnancy outcomes, congenital disabilities of male genitalia, etc. [6]. As a result, users have changed their liking and selected natural cosmetic products for usage [7]. Hence, the enlarging market for skincare formulations and constant look for an alternative natural constituents led to the production of a different types of cosmeceutical skin products [8].
Marine macroalgae (seaweeds) are macroscopic, multicellular, eukaryotic organisms that can perform photosynthesis due to presence of Chlorophyll and some other photosynthetic pigments. They are widely distributed along the coastal line (the intertidal and sub-tidal regions) and in brackish water [10]. Based on pigment composition, they can be classified into three types. Brown alga belongs to Ochrophyta phylum (Phaeophyceae class), red alga belongs to Rhodophyta phylum, and green alga belongs to Chlorophyta phylum. Among these three types, brown algae belong to the Chromista kingdom, whereas green and red algae belong to the Plantae kingdom [10,11]. Seaweeds have a more highly diversified bioactive constituents than terrestrial organisms [12]. These bioactive compounds have a wide range of biological activities which can be used in product preparation as an ingredient [13,14]. The applications of macroalgae in cosmeceutical formulations depends on their constituents (such as polysaccharides, carbohydrate derivatives, proteins, peptides, amino acids, phenolic compounds, vitamins, minerals, fatty acids, pigments, etc.) [15,16]. Many previous findings have reported the role of seaweed based bioactive compounds which offer antitumor, antiallergic, antimicrobial, antioxidant, antiinflammation, antilipidemic activity, antiwrinkle, anti-aging, moisturizing, and photoprotection activities [5,15,17,18,19].
Marine macroalgae (seaweeds) are macroscopic, multicellular, eukaryotic organisms that can perform photosynthesis due to presence of Chlorophyll and some other photosynthetic pigments. They are widely distributed along the coastal line (the intertidal and sub-tidal regions) and in brackish water [9]. Based on pigment composition, they can be classified into three types. Brown alga belongs to Ochrophyta phylum (Phaeophyceae class), red alga belongs to Rhodophyta phylum, and green alga belongs to Chlorophyta phylum. Among these three types, brown algae belong to the Chromista kingdom, whereas green and red algae belong to the Plantae kingdom [9][10]. Seaweeds have a more highly diversified bioactive constituents than terrestrial organisms [11]. These bioactive compounds have a wide range of biological activities which can be used in product preparation as an ingredient [12][13]. The applications of macroalgae in cosmeceutical formulations depends on their constituents (such as polysaccharides, carbohydrate derivatives, proteins, peptides, amino acids, phenolic compounds, vitamins, minerals, fatty acids, pigments, etc.) [14][15]. Many previous findings have reported the role of seaweed based bioactive compounds which offer antitumor, antiallergic, antimicrobial, antioxidant, antiinflammation, antilipidemic activity, antiwrinkle, anti-aging, moisturizing, and photoprotection activities [5][14][16][17][18].

2. Seaweed Derived Metabolites in Cosmetics

For the preparation of cosmeceutical products, macroalgae-derived compounds have been noted as being of significant importance [20][19]. Polysaccharides have a great role in cosmetics including in moisturizers, emulsifiers, wound healing agents, and thickening agents [21][20]. Fernando et al. [22][21] have reported anti-inflammation activity of Fucoidan from Chnoospora minima (Phaeophyceae) by inhibition of Lipopolysaccharides induced nitric oxide production, inducible nitric oxide productions, Cyclooxygenase-2, and Prostaglandin E2 levels in an experimental study by targeting RAW macrophages. Likewise, Ariede et al. [23][22], Wang et al. [24][23], and Teas and Irhimeh, [25][24] reported beneficial activities of Fucus vesiculosus (Figure 1a) (Phaeophyceae) derived polysaccharides such as anti-aging, anti-melanogenic, anti-cancer, and antioxidant activity by stimulating collagen production, tyrosinase inhibition, decreasing melanoma growth and by preventing oxidation formation, respectively. In addition, the anti-inflammation activity of sulphated polysaccharide from Padina tetrastromatica (Phaeophyceae) by COX-2 and iNOS inhibitions in an experimental model of Paw edema in rats [26][25]. Moreover, Khan et al. [27][26] reported the anti-inflammation activity of polyunsaturated fatty acids derived from Undaria Undaria pinnatifidapinnatifida (Figure 1b) (Phaeophyceae) on mouse ear edema and erythema. In vitro, the antioxidant activity of methanolic extracts from Osmundaria obtusilo and Palisada flagellifera (Rhodophyta) was studied by DPPH, ABTS, metal chelating, Folin ciocalteau, and beta-carotene bleaching assays [28,29][27][28]. Phenolic compound Sargachromanol E revealed antiaging activities from Sargassum horneri (Phaeophyceae) by inhibition of matric metalloprotein expression on UVA irradiated dermal fibroblast [30][29].

 
Phycology 02 00010 g001 550
Phycology 02 00010 g001 550
Figure 1.
Seaweed species images: (
a
)—Fucus vesiculosus (P); (
b
)—Undaria pinnatifida (P); (
c
)—Schizymenia dubyi (R); (
d
)—Ulva linza (C); (
e
)—Bryopsis plumosa (C); (
f
)—Laminaria digitata (P); (
g
)—Palmaria palmata (R); (
h
)—Himanthalia elongata (P); (
i
)—Porphyra umbilicalis (R); (
j
)—Jania rubens (R); (
k
)—Gracilaria gracilis (R); (
l
)—Ceramium virgatum (R); (
m
)—Kappaphycus alvarezii (R); (
n
)—Ulva lactuca (C); (
o
)—Ascophyllum nodosum (P); (
p)—Eucheuma denticulatum (R); C—Chlorophyta; R—Rhodophyta; P—Phaeophyceae; Scale = 1 cm.
)—Eucheuma denticulatum (R); C—Chlorophyta; R—Rhodophyta; P—Phaeophyceae; Scale = 1 cm.

3. Polysaccharides

Marine macroalgae derived polysaccharides are well known for their biological benefits. The presence of polysaccharides (ulvan, fucoidan, alginate, laminarin, carrageenan, sulphated polysaccharides, agar, and agarose) in macroalgae and noted their cosmeceutical benefits. Other examples of macroalgae derived polysaccharides and their cosmetic benefits are presented in Table 1.

Table 1. Application of macroalgae derived polysaccharides in skin cosmetics.
.
Table 5.
Applications of macroalgae derived lipids and fatty acids in skin cosmetics.
No. Name of Macroalgae Fatty acid Cosmetic Benefits References
1 Chondrus crispus

(Figure 3b) (R)		 EPA, AA, DHA, GLA, LA, Palmitic acid, Oleic acid Antiallergic, Anti-aging, Anti-inflammation, Antiwrinkle, Antimicrobial, Emollients, [229][154]
32
Turbinaria conoides (P)
Laminarin, Alginate, Fucoidan
Antioxidant
[
72
]
SP, Sulphated Polysaccharides; C, Chlorophyta; R, Rhodophyta; P, Phaeophyceae; * Microalgae.

4. Amino Acids

Protein is considered a macromolecule and polymer of amino acids. Pereira [76] reported the role of amino acids as a natural moisturizing factor that prevents water loss in the skin. Marine macroalgae are a satisfactory resource of various amino acids, such as glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, proline, arginine, serine, histidine, tyrosine, and some other mycosporine amino acids (MAAs). Marine macroalgae derived peptides and amino acids and its skin cosmetic benefits are illustrated in
Protein is considered a macromolecule and polymer of amino acids. Pereira [67] reported the role of amino acids as a natural moisturizing factor that prevents water loss in the skin. Marine macroalgae are a satisfactory resource of various amino acids, such as glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, proline, arginine, serine, histidine, tyrosine, and some other mycosporine amino acids (MAAs). Marine macroalgae derived peptides and amino acids and its skin cosmetic benefits are illustrated in
Table 2. In cosmeceutical products, amino acids usually function as a hydrating agent as a natural moisturizing factor in human skin [93].
. In cosmeceutical products, amino acids usually function as a hydrating agent as a natural moisturizing factor in human skin [73].
Table 2.
Applications of macroalgae derived peptides and amino acids in skin cosmetics.
No. Name of Macroalgae Compounds Cosmetic Benefits References
1 Scytosiphon lomentaria (P) Amino acids Antioxidant, Radical scavengers, Chelators [97,[98,7499]][75
2 Undaria pinnatifida

(Figure 1b) (P)		 PUFA Anti-inflammatory [229][154]
3 Ulva lactuca

(
[
119
]
[
96
]
22
Palmaria palmata (
Figure 1
g), Porphyra umbilicalis


(
Figure 1
i) (R)
MAAs Antiaging, Collagenase inhibition [120,121][97][98]
C, Chlorophyta; R, Rhodophyta; P, Phaeophyceae.

5. Pigments

Marine macroalgae have a broad diversity of photosynthetic pigments that capture light for the photosynthesis process. Chlorophyta (green algae) contain chlorophyll a, chlorophyll b, and carotenoids; Rhodophyta (red algae) contain chlorophyll a, phycobilin (phycocyanin, phycoerythrin), and carotenoids (carotene, lutein, zeaxanthin), and Phaeophyceae (brown algae) contain chlorophyll a, chlorophyll c, fucoxanthin, and different carotenoid pigments. Different macroalgae-derived pigments and cosmetic applications are reported in
Table 3. These pigments provide a shield to the skin cells against harmful UV radiations [135].
. These pigments provide a shield to the skin cells against harmful UV radiations [99].
Table 3.
Applications of macroalgae derived pigments in skin cosmetics.
No. Name of Macroalgae Pigment Cosmetic Benefits References
][76]
1 Sargassum spp. Carotenoids, Astaxanthin, Beta-carotene, Fucoxanthin Anticellulite, Antiaging, Antiphotoaging, antioxidant, antiviral [148][100]
2 Gracilaria vermiculophylla (R) Porphyra-334, Palythine, Asterina-330, Shinorine Antioxidant, UV protector [100][77]
2 Saccharina japonica (P) Fucoxanthin Inhibition of tyrosinase and Melanogenesis in UVB irradiated [149][101] 3 Ulva lactuca (Figure 1n) (C),

Asparagopsis armata

(Figure 3c) (R)		 MAAs, Amino acids Antiaging, Anti wrinkles, Improves collagen formation [101][78]
3 Cladosiphon okamuranus (P) Fucoxanthin Antioxidant, DPPH inhibition Figure 1n) (P)[150] Fatty acid such as C18 and C16 type[102] In-vitro and in-vivo Nrf2-ARE activation, Cell protective, Antioxidant [230][155] 4 Pelvetia canaliculata

(Figure 3d) (P)		 Amino acids
4 Phaeophyceae

(Brown algae) (P)		 Unsaturated Fatty acidsAntioxidant, Collagen formation, Proteoglycan’s synthesis [102] Antioxidant[79]
5 Gracilaria chilensis, Pyropia plicata, Champia novae-zelandiae (R) MAAs Anti UV, Antioxidant [103][80]
6 Ulva lactuca

(Figure 1n) (C)		 Arginine, Aspartic acid, Glycine Enhance collagen and elastin synthesis [103][80]
4 Neopyropia yezoensis® Phycoerythrin Antioxidant, Anticancer, Antiinflammatory [34][103]
5 Gracilaria gracilis, Porpyridium sp. (R) Phycobiliprotein pigment such as R-phycoerythrin, Phycocyanin, Allophycocyanins Antioxidant, Skin whitening activity by Antimelanogenic activity [151][104
Antioxidant
[
168
]
[
121
]
C, Chlorophyta; R, Rhodophyta; P, Phaeophyceae.
Phenolic compounds are one of the secondary metabolites that make an important group of components for skin cosmetic benefits. Due to wide varieties of biological actions, they can be incorporated in various skin cosmetic preparations. Theyr can be categorized into simple phenolic compounds and polyphenols, comprising bromophenols, phlorotannins, flavonoids, terpenoids, etc. [169]. Marine macroalgae0derived phenolic compounds and their cosmetic benefits are presented in
C, Chlorophyta; R, Rhodophyta; P, Phaeophyceae. Phenolic compounds are one of the secondary metabolites that make an important group of components for skin cosmetic benefits. Due to wide varieties of biological actions, they can be incorporated in various skin cosmetic preparations. Theyr can be categorized into simple phenolic compounds and polyphenols, comprising bromophenols, phlorotannins, flavonoids, terpenoids, etc. [122]. Marine macroalgae0derived phenolic compounds and their cosmetic benefits are presented in
Table 4.
.
Table 4.
Applications of macroalgae derived phenolic compounds in skin cosmetics.
No. Name of Macroalgae Phenolic Compound/s Characterization or Analysis of Phenolic Compounds References
1 Macrocystis pyrifera (P) Phlorotannins, Phloroeckol, Tetrameric phloroglucinol Antioxidant, Antidiabetic, Antiaging [188][123]
2 Ascophyllum nodosum

(Figure 1o) (P)		 Ascophyllan MMP inhibition [189][124]
3 Cystoseira foeniculacea (P) Polyphenol Antioxidant [190][125]
4 Stephanocystis hakodatensis (P) Phenol Antioxidant [191][126] [231][156
]
] 5 Ecklonia cava subsp. Stolonifera (P)
5Fucofuroeckol-A Protection against UVB radiation Ulva lactuca

(Figure 1n) (P)		 Lipopeptides[192][127] Inhibition of elastase, enhance collagen synthesis [232][157] 6 Cladophora glomera®(C) Chlorophyll a, Chlorophyll b, Chlorophyll c, Chlorophyll d Antibacterial, Antioxidant, Colorants, Deodorizer [
7152,153,154][ Corallina pilulifera (R)
6 Himanthalia elongata

(Figure 1h) (P)		105][106][107]
Phlorotannins Antiaging, antiinflammatio, antioxidants, antiallergic, UV screens [193] Fatty acids and volatile compounds Antioxidant, Antimicrobial [233][158] 7 Porphyra umbilicalis

(Figure 1i) (R)		 MAAs, (2:1 ratio of Porphyra-334 and Shinorine) Antiaging [104][81]
[128] 7 Portieri®p. (R) Phycobiliproteins, Phycoerythrin, Phycocyanin 8 Ishige foliacea (P) PhlorotanninAntioxidants, anti-inflammatory, Colorants, Radical scavenger [154][107] Antimelanogenic, inhibition of tyrosinase and melanin synthesis [194,195][129][130]
7 Porphyridium purpureum (R) Eicosapentaenoic acid, Docosahexaenoic acid, Eicosatetraenoic acid, Polyunsaturated omega-3 fatty acids Antioxidant, Anti-inflammatory, Anti-photoaging [234][159] 8 Palmaria palmata

(Figure 1g),

Catenella caespitosa (R)		 MAAs UV and UV-A protection [105][82
8]
Cladophora glomerata (C) 10 Laminaria ochroleuca

(Figure 3f) (P)
8 Ulva rigida (Ulva rigida (Figure 3m) (C), Gracilaria sp. (R), Fucus vesiculosus (Figure 3m) (C), Gracilaria sp. (R), Fucus vesiculosus (Figure 1a), Chlorophyll Saccharina latissima

(Figure 3		Tissue growth stimulators g) (P)1a), Saccharina latissimaPolyphenol[155][108] Antioxidant

[196][131] 9 Porphyra sp.,

Catenella caespitosa (R), Padina crassa, Desmarestia aculeata (P)		 MAAs such as Aminocyclohexenone-type, Aminocyclohexene imine-type Photoprotection, Antiaging, Anti-inflammatory, Antioxidant [106][83]
9 Neopyropia y®
11 Caulerpa racemo®(C) Flavonoids, Hydroquinone, Saponins Tyrosinase inhibitor [197][132]
(Figure 3g) (P) Lipidic profile Antioxidant [235][160] ensis (R) Porphyran Antioxidant, Anti-inflammatory [156][109]
9 Sargassum fusiforme (P) Fucosterol Protection against photodamage, UVB protector, MMP inhibition, Enhance procollagen formation, Anti-inflammatory [236,237][161] 10 Curdiea racovitzae, Iridaea cordata (R) Palythine, asterina-330 Antioxidant, Anti-UV, Antiaging [107][84]
[162] 10 U® lactuca (C) Carotenoids such as astaxanthin, beta-carotene, fucoxanthin, lutein Anti-inflammatory, Antiaging, Tyrosinase inhibition, Antioxidants, Photoprotective [153][106] 12 Ecklonia cava (P) Dioxinodehydroeckol UV B protective [198][133]
10 Gracilariopsis longissima (R), Saccharina japonica (P) (8E)-10-oxo-8-octadecenoic acid, (E)-9-oxo-10-octadecenoic acid, Myristic acid, Palmitic acid Anti-inflammatory [238][163] 11 Porphyra sp. (R) Protein and hydrolysates Moisture retention capacity and viscosifying agent [108,109] 13 Ecklonia cava subsp. stolonifera (P) Phlorotannins[ Inhibition of Matric metalloproteins (MMPs), Antiwrinkle, Tyrosinase inhibitor, Skin whitener85] [199[86]
12
11 Rhodophyta (R) Lutein Skin whitening [157][110] ][134] Palmaria sp., Porphyra sp. (R) High amounts of Glycine and Arginine Natural moisturizing factor
14 Saccharina latissima ([110][87]
Figure 3g) (P) Phenol Antioxidant [200][135] 13
15Chondrus crispus (Chondrus crispus (Figure 3 Ecklonia cava (P) Dieckol Anti-adipogenesis [201][136]
11 Silvetia siliquosa (P) Fucosterol Antioxidant, Stimulate antioxidant enzymes such as catalase, glutathione peroxidase [239,240][164][165] b), Mastocarpus stellatus (Figure 3b), Mastocarpus stellatus (Figure 3e), Palmaria palmata (Figure 1g) (R)e), Palmaria palmata (Figure 1g) (R) Palythine, Usujirene, Porphyra-334, Shinorine, Asterina, palythinol Antioxidant, Anti-proliferation [111][88]
14 Pelvetia canaliculata

(Figure 3d) (P)		 Amino acids Antioxidant, Collagen synthesis, Proteoglycan synthesis stimulation [
12 Paraglossum lancifolium (R) Lipid soluble pigments such as Xanthophyll and Carotenoids

Beta-carotene, Lutein		 Antioxidant, Anti-inflammatory, Antiphotoaging, Photoprotection, Anti-photoaging [158][111] 112
16
14 Sargassum fusiforme (P) 13 Undaria pinnatifida (P) Fucoxanthin Photoprotective [159][ Ecklonia cava subsp. kurome (P)][89]
112]
14 Porphyra sp. (P) Zeaxanthin, Alpha and beta carotene Anti-inflammatory, Photoprotection, Antioxidant, Antiaging [160][113] Phlorotannin Anti-inflammatory, Hyaluronidase inhibition [202][137] 15 Laminaria digitata (Figure 1f) (P)
17Proteins Lipolytic Caulerp®[113][90]
15 Gracilaria gracilis (Figure 1k) (R) Phycobiliproteins (R-phycoerythrin allophycocyanin, Phycocyanin) Antioxidant p. (C)[151][ Flavonoids, Phenols Tyrosinase inhibitors [203][138]
Fucosterol Anti-aging, MMP inhibition [241][166] 104] 16
15 Codium fragile (C) Sterol Anti-inflammatory [242][167] Neopyropia yezoensis (R) Peptide PPy1 Anti-inflammatory
16[114][91]
Sargassum siliquastrum (P) Fucoxanthin Skin protector, Antiphotoaging, Antiwrinkle [ 18 Rhodomela conf®oides (R)161][114] Polyphenol, Bromophenol Antioxidant, Antimicrobial, DPPH inhibition [204][139 17 Palmaria palmata

] 17(Figure 1g) (R) MAAs UV protector Ulva lactuca (C)[115][92]
Zeaxanthin, Neoxanthin, Antheraxanthin, Siphonein, Siphoxanthin, Photoprotection, Antiphotoaging, Anti-inflammatory [162][115]
19 Eisenia bicyclis, Ecklonia Cava subsp. stolonifera (P) Eckol Anti-inflammation, Skin whitening activity [205,206][140][141] 18 Sargassum polycystum (P) Amino acids and amines Anti-melanogenic or skin whitening effect [116,117,118][93][94][95]
18 Himanthalia elongata (P) Fucoxanthin extract Antioxidant [163][
20 Schizymenia dubyi (Figure 1c) (R) Phenol116] Anti-melanogenic, Tyrosinase inhibition [207][142] 19 Porphyra umbilicalis

(Figure 1i) (R)		 Porphyra-334, Shinorine Moisturization, Skin protector, Antiwrinkle, Protect against roughness
19[
21119][96]
Ascophyllum nodosum (P) Fucoxanthin Cystoseira compressaAntiagin, Antiwrinkle

(Figure 3h) (P)		[ Fuhalol164][ Antioxidant117] [208][143] 21 Porphyra yezoensis f. coreana (R) Peptides, PYP1-5, porphyra-334 Enhance Elastin and collagen formation, reduce MMP expression
20
 Fucus vesiculosus (P) Fucoxanthin Antioxidant Cystoseira compressa

(Figure 3h) (P)		 Fuhalol[165][118]
Antioxidant [208][143] 21 Phaeophyta
22 Ecklonia cava (P)Fucoxanthin Antiphotoaging [166][119]
dieckol Promotes hair growth [209][144] 22 Sargassum siliquastrum (P)
23 Fucus vesiculosus (Fucus vesiculosus (Figure 1a), Gongolaria nodicaulis (Figure 1a), Gongolaria nodicaulis (3i), Ericaria selaginoides (Figure 3j), Gongolaria usneoides (Figure 3i), Ericaria selaginoides (Figure 3j), Gongolaria usneoides (Figure 3Fucoxanthin k), Anti-melanogenic (skin whitening effect), Antioxidant, Anti-inflammatory Ecklonia cava (P)k), Ecklonia cava (P)[167][120]
Phlorotannins such as Fucophloroethol, Fucodiphloroethol, Fucotripholoroethol, Phlorofucofuroeckol bieckol or dieckol Skin whitening effect, Antioxidant, Anti-inflammatory, Antihistamine, Photoprotection [210][145] 23 Gelidium crinale (R)
24 Ascophyllum nodosum

(Figure 1		Carotenoids
o) (P) Phlorotannins, Eckols, Fucols, Phlorethols Inhibition of tyrosinase, Anti-inflammation, Anti UV, Anti-allergic, Chelators, Antiaging, Hyaluronidase inhibitor [210][145]
25 Meristotheca dakarensis (R) Glucosaminoglycan Anti-aging, Collagen synthesis [13][12]
26 Gongolaria nodicaulis,

Ericaria selaginoides,

Gongolaria usneoides (Figure 3k) (P)		 Phlorotannins such as bioeckol, 7-phloroeckol, phlorofucofuroeckol, fucophloroethol Anti-inflammation, Antioxidant, Anti-aging, Inhibition of hyaluronidase [210][145]
27 Fucus spiralis

(Figure 3l) (P)		 Phlorotannins Inhibition of lipid peroxidation, hyaluronidase inhibitor, antiaging, antiwrinkle, Anti-inflammatory, Antiwrinkle [210][145]
28 Ecklonia cava, Ecklonia cava subsp. stolonifera (P) Eckol, 6,6′-bieckol, doeckol, Phlorofucofuroeckol-A, 8,8′-bieckol Anti-allergic [211][146]
29 Eisenia bicyclis, Ecklonia cava subsp. stolonifera Phlorofucofuroeckol A Hepatoprotective, Anti-tyrosinase [212,213][147][148]
30 Eisenia arborea, Ecklonia bicyclis (P) Phlorotannins Anti-inflammation, Hyaluronidase inhibitor, antiwrinkle [214][149]
31 Eisenia arborea (P) Phlorofucofuroeckol A Anti-allergic [215][150]
32 Ascophyllum nodosum

(Figure 1o),

Fucus serratus (Figure 3n), Himanthalia elongata (Figure 1h),

Sargassum muticum (P)		 Phlorotannins Antioxidant, Antibacterial, antiviral, photoprotection, Anti-inflammatory [216,217,218][151][152][153]
33 Ecklonia cava (P) Eckols, fucols, phlorethols, Fuhalols, fucophlorethol Anti-aging, Anti-inflammation, Hyaluronidase inhibitor, antiallergic, UV protector [218][153]
No.Name of MacroalgaePolysaccharidesCosmetic BenefitsReferences
1Ulva lactuca

(Figure 1n) (C)		SP (Ulvan)Antioxidant, Moisturizer, Photoprotective[39]
 Neopyropia yezoensis (R)PorphyranAntiinflammation[40,41]
2Porphyridium sp.* (R),

Costaria costata (P), Ulva lactuca (Figure 1n) (C)		Sulphated polysaccharidesAntioxidant,

Anti-inflammatory,

Antiaging		[42]
3Fucus vesiculosus (Figure 1a)FucoidansAntiaging, Antiwrinkle[43]
4Ascophyllum nododum

(Figure 1o),

Chnoospora minima,

Sargassum fusiforme,

Saccharina japonica, Sargassum polycystum,

S. vachellianum,

S. hemiphyllum (P)		FucoidansPhotoprotection, Anti photoaging

Anti-inflammatory,

Anti-elastase, Anti-collagenase, Skin whitening		[44,45,46,47]
5Fucus vesiculosus

(Figure 1a) (P)		FucoidanAnticoagulant Antioxidant, Enhancer of Skin fibroblast formation[48]
6Neoporphyra haitanensis (R)PorphyranAntioxidant[49,50]
7Saccharina longicruris (P)LaminaranAnti-inflammation, Antioxidant, Reconstruction of dermis[51,52]
8Saccharina longicruris (P)GalactofucansEnhance fibroblast formation, Increase synthesis of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) complex and collagen-1[53]
9Eucheuma denticulatum

(Figure 1p) (R)		CarrageenanAntioxidant, photoprotection[54]
10Gelidium sp. (R)AgarThickener[55]
11Ascophyllum sp.,

Fucus sp.,

Sargassum sp., Undaria sp. (P)		LaminaranAnticellulite[56]
12Saccharina cichorioides (P)FucoidanAnti-atopic dermatitis[57]
13Corallina officinalis

(Figure 3a) (R)		Sulphated polysaccharidesAntioxidant[58]
14Ulva australis (C)UlvanAntiaging[59,60]
15Acanthophora muscoides (R)Sulphated polysaccharides-CarrageenanAnticoagulant, Antinociceptive, antiinflammation, Gel agents[61,62,63]
17Chondrus crispus (R)CarrageenanGel and Thickening agent, Skin moisturizer[64]
18Ulva rigida (Figure 3m),

U. pseudorotundata (C)		Sulphated polysaccharidesAntioxidant, Chelators, Gel agents, Moisturizer[65]
19Ascophyllum nodosum

(Figure 1o) (P)		FucoidanAnti-inflammation, Antiviral, Antiaging, Anti elastase, Photoprotective, Tyrosinase inhibition, Anticellulite[66]
20Gracilaria sp. (R)AgarThickener[67]
21Padina boergesenii (P)Sulphated polysaccharidesFormation of collagen[68]
22Macrocystis sp., Lessonia sp., Laminaria sp. (P)AlginateGelling and Stabilizing agent, Moisturizer, Chelator[69,70]
24Kjellmaniella crassifoliaFucoidanAntiaging, Antiwrinkle[71]
25Brown algae (P)AlginateThickening agent

Gelling agent		[72]
27Sargassum

vachellianum (P)		PolysaccharidesSkin moisturizer and protectors[73]
28Fucus vesiculosus (Figure 1a),

Laminaria digitata (Figure 1f),

Undaria pinnatifida (Figure 1b) (P)		FucoidanAntioxidant, Antiaging,

Anticoagulant, Increase skin fibroblast formulation		[74,75]
29Ascophyllum nodosum

(Figure 1o) (P)		FucoidanAnti-elastase, gelatinase A inhibition, Inhibition of interleukin-1 beta in fibroblast cells[76]
30Ecklonia cava (P)PhlorotanninsPhotoprotectors against UV-B[77,78]
31Neoporphyra haitanensis,

Gracilaria chouae,

G. blodgetti (R)		AgarAntioxidant,

Thickeners

Antitumor,

Radiation protector,

Antiaging		[79,80]
32Turbinaria conoides (P)Laminarin, Alginate, FucoidanAntioxidant[81]
SP, Sulphated Polysaccharides; C, Chlorophyta; R, Rhodophyta; P, Phaeophyceae; * Microalgae.
Application of macroalgae derived polysaccharides in skin cosmetics.
No.
Name of MacroalgaePolysaccharidesCosmetic BenefitsReferences
1Ulva lactuca

(Figure 1n) (C)		SP (Ulvan)Antioxidant, Moisturizer, Photoprotective[30]
 Neopyropia yezoensis (R)PorphyranAntiinflammation[31][32]
2Porphyridium sp.* (R),

Costaria costata (P), Ulva lactuca (Figure 1n) (C)		Sulphated polysaccharidesAntioxidant,

Anti-inflammatory,

Antiaging		[33]
3Fucus vesiculosus (Figure 1a)FucoidansAntiaging, Antiwrinkle[34]
4Ascophyllum nododum

(Figure 1o),

Chnoospora minima,

Sargassum fusiforme,

Saccharina japonica, Sargassum polycystum,

S. vachellianum,

S. hemiphyllum (P)		FucoidansPhotoprotection, Anti photoaging

Anti-inflammatory,

Anti-elastase, Anti-collagenase, Skin whitening		[35][36][37][38]
5Fucus vesiculosus

(Figure 1a) (P)		FucoidanAnticoagulant Antioxidant, Enhancer of Skin fibroblast formation[39]
6Neoporphyra haitanensis (R)PorphyranAntioxidant[40][41]
7Saccharina longicruris (P)LaminaranAnti-inflammation, Antioxidant, Reconstruction of dermis[42][43]
8Saccharina longicruris (P)GalactofucansEnhance fibroblast formation, Increase synthesis of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) complex and collagen-1[44]
9Eucheuma denticulatum

(Figure 1p) (R)		CarrageenanAntioxidant, photoprotection[45]
10Gelidium sp. (R)AgarThickener[46]
11Ascophyllum sp.,

Fucus sp.,

Sargassum sp., Undaria sp. (P)		LaminaranAnticellulite[47
C, Chlorophyta; R, Rhodophyta; P, Phaeophyceae.

7

C, Chlorophyta; R, Rhodophyta; P, Phaeophyceae.

6. Fatty Acids

Seaweeds are well known for various types of fatty acids such as glycolipids, triglycerides, sterols, and phospholipids. The chemical structures of marine algae derived fatty acids are illustrated in
Figure 7
. These have been reported as being higher in seaweed as compared to terrestrial plants. Different types of fatty acids from different macroalgae and its cosmetic benefits are presented in
Table 5
]
12
Saccharina cichorioides (P)
Fucoidan
Anti-atopic dermatitis
[
48
]
13
Corallina officinalis

(Figure 3a) (R)		Sulphated polysaccharidesAntioxidant[49]
14Ulva australis (C)UlvanAntiaging[50][51]
15Acanthophora muscoides (R)Sulphated polysaccharides-CarrageenanAnticoagulant, Antinociceptive, antiinflammation, Gel agents[52][53][54]
17Chondrus crispus (R)CarrageenanGel and Thickening agent, Skin moisturizer[55]
18Ulva rigida (Figure 3m),

U. pseudorotundata (C)		Sulphated polysaccharidesAntioxidant, Chelators, Gel agents, Moisturizer[56]
19Ascophyllum nodosum

(Figure 1o) (P)		FucoidanAnti-inflammation, Antiviral, Antiaging, Anti elastase, Photoprotective, Tyrosinase inhibition, Anticellulite[57]
20Gracilaria sp. (R)AgarThickener[58]
21Padina boergesenii (P)Sulphated polysaccharidesFormation of collagen[59]
22Macrocystis sp., Lessonia sp., Laminaria sp. (P)AlginateGelling and Stabilizing agent, Moisturizer, Chelator[60][61]
24Kjellmaniella crassifoliaFucoidanAntiaging, Antiwrinkle[62]
25Brown algae (P)AlginateThickening agent

Gelling agent		[63]
27Sargassum

vachellianum (P)		PolysaccharidesSkin moisturizer and protectors[64]
28Fucus vesiculosus (Figure 1a),

Laminaria digitata (Figure 1f),

Undaria pinnatifida (Figure 1b) (P)		FucoidanAntioxidant, Antiaging,

Anticoagulant, Increase skin fibroblast formulation		[65][66]
29Ascophyllum nodosum

(Figure 1o) (P)		FucoidanAnti-elastase, gelatinase A inhibition, Inhibition of interleukin-1 beta in fibroblast cells[67]
30Ecklonia cava (P)PhlorotanninsPhotoprotectors against UV-B[68][69]
31Neoporphyra haitanensis,

Gracilaria chouae,

G. blodgetti (R)		AgarAntioxidant,

Thickeners

Antitumor,

Radiation protector,

Antiaging		[70][71]
C, Chlorophyta; R, Rhodophyta; P, Phaeophyceae.

8

C, Chlorophyta; R, Rhodophyta; P, Phaeophyceae.

7. Minerals

Depending on the environment in which macroalgae inhabit, they are highly diversified in mineral composition (especially with regards to trace elements including zinc, magnesium, aluminum, silica, copper, iodine, selenium, iron, manganese, and micronutrients including calcium, sodium, phosphorus, potassium, and chlorine).
Minerals have a very essential vital role as cofactors of different metalloenzymes [245]. Moreover, a combination of calcium and magnesium improves barrier repairs in topical skincare products [246]. Indeed, acid-induced burns are relieved by gel solution containing calcium gluconate solution [247]. Likewise, magnesium silicate (talc) and magnesium sulphate (i.e., Epsom salts) have reported enhancement of skin benefits. Talc is most frequently useful in baby skin powders to prevent diaper rash. In adults, it can be used as a lubricant and to reduce wetness in the perineal and axillary areas [248]. In addition, Boisseau et al. [249] found improvements in skin softness and exfoliation, relief in muscle tension, and the promotion of relaxation by Epsom salts. They also reported the key regulatory role of Mg
Depending on the environment in which macroalgae inhabit, they are highly diversified in mineral composition (especially with regards to trace elements including zinc, magnesium, aluminum, silica, copper, iodine, selenium, iron, manganese, and micronutrients including calcium, sodium, phosphorus, potassium, and chlorine). Minerals have a very essential vital role as cofactors of different metalloenzymes [168]. Moreover, a combination of calcium and magnesium improves barrier repairs in topical skincare products [169]. Indeed, acid-induced burns are relieved by gel solution containing calcium gluconate solution [170]. Likewise, magnesium silicate (talc) and magnesium sulphate (i.e., Epsom salts) have reported enhancement of skin benefits. Talc is most frequently useful in baby skin powders to prevent diaper rash. In adults, it can be used as a lubricant and to reduce wetness in the perineal and axillary areas [171]. In addition, Boisseau et al. [172] found improvements in skin softness and exfoliation, relief in muscle tension, and the promotion of relaxation by Epsom salts. They also reported the key regulatory role of Mg
++
and Ca
++ in the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes. Likewise, magnesium silicate (talc) and magnesium sulphate (Epsom salts) have reported enhancement of skin benefits. Talc is most frequently useful in baby skin powders to prevent diaper rash as well as in adults to reduce wetness in the perineal and axilla areas (and as a lubricant) [250]. They also reported the key regulatory role of Mg
in the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes. Likewise, magnesium silicate (talc) and magnesium sulphate (Epsom salts) have reported enhancement of skin benefits. Talc is most frequently useful in baby skin powders to prevent diaper rash as well as in adults to reduce wetness in the perineal and axilla areas (and as a lubricant) [173]. They also reported the key regulatory role of Mg
++
and Ca
++ in the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes. ZnO-based skin protectants are cost-effective, easily formulated, and stable under aerobic conditions [250,251]. Zinc oxide is superior to zinc sulphate to mitigate inflammation and enhance re-epithelization of partial-thickness porcine skin [252]. Due to low water solubility, it sustains in the skin at the wound site. Newman et al. [253] revealed the importance of skin in sunburned skin and under ultraviolet exposure. Bissett et al. [254] found significantly delayed UV-induced tumors in Guinea pigs and mouse models by topical use of a 2-furildioxime (iron chelator).

9. Summary

Macroalgae are a valuable resource of bioactive components, with scientific evidence revealing their benefits for safer use in humans and wellbeing. Marine algae-derived molecules showed biological effects on the skin, such as skin whitening, antiaging, antiwrinkle, photoprotection, moisturizing, and collagen-boosting, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anticellulite, antiviral, and anticancer activities. Moreover, many cosmeceutical companies already use marine algae extracts and have derived compounds from these extracts in their formulations. However, the biochemical profile monitoring of macroalgae presents a problem that industries need to overcome. The development of its cultivation and sustainable methods of extraction procedures shows the significant key for this confined, which is being analyzed with noteworthy benefits. However, more detail analysis requires to understand the exact mechanism of some compounds since some compounds have not been fully explored. Therefore, the further analysis and evaluation are essential to improve the quality of cosmetic formulations which will be useful to enhance consumers safety.
in the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes. ZnO-based skin protectants are cost-effective, easily formulated, and stable under aerobic conditions [173][174]. Zinc oxide is superior to zinc sulphate to mitigate inflammation and enhance re-epithelization of partial-thickness porcine skin [175]. Due to low water solubility, it sustains in the skin at the wound site. Newman et al. [176] revealed the importance of skin in sunburned skin and under ultraviolet exposure. Bissett et al. [177] found significantly delayed UV-induced tumors in Guinea pigs and mouse models by topical use of a 2-furildioxime (iron chelator).

8. Summary

Macroalgae are a valuable resource of bioactive components, with scientific evidence revealing their benefits for safer use in humans and wellbeing. Marine algae-derived molecules showed biological effects on the skin, such as skin whitening, antiaging, antiwrinkle, photoprotection, moisturizing, and collagen-boosting, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anticellulite, antiviral, and anticancer activities. Moreover, many cosmeceutical companies already use marine algae extracts and have derived compounds from these extracts in their formulations. However, the biochemical profile monitoring of macroalgae presents a problem that industries need to overcome. The development of its cultivation and sustainable methods of extraction procedures shows the significant key for this confined, which is being analyzed with noteworthy benefits. However, more detail analysis requires to understand the exact mechanism of some compounds since some compounds have not been fully explored. Therefore, the further analysis and evaluation are essential to improve the quality of cosmetic formulations which will be useful to enhance consumers safety.

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