Role of Marine Macroalgae in Cosmeceuticals: Comparison
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The cosmetic industry uses the term ‘cosmeceutical’ to refer to a cosmetic formula that has drug-like applicative advantages. Many marine algae are rich in biologically active components that have been reported to exhibit strong benefits to the skin, mainly for photoprotection, skin whitening, moisturization, anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, antioxidants, and antimicrobial uses. 

  • seaweeds
  • bioactivity
  • cosmeceuticals
  • skin care
  • anti-inflammatory

1. Introduction

In cosmeceuticals, cosmetic products are a topical combination of cosmetic and pharmaceutical with bioactive molecules to have medicinal or drug-like applications to improve health and texture of skin [1][2]. Due to modernization and skin care attention, cosmetic companies are enlarging gradually each year worldwide. To fulfill the requirements of customers, these cosmetic companies are moving towards unbeatable exploitation of synthetic cosmetics and constituents. Due to the ineffectiveness of synthetic components, it may cumulate in skin and produce toxic effects and may cause harm to healthy skin structure. Hydroxybenzoic acid esters (parabens) reported its adverse effect to the skin as well as increase incidence of malignant melanoma and breast cancer since it is widely used in cosmetic formulations [3]. Another substance is phthalate, which is highly found in different cosmetic formulations that can cause DNA mutations and damage, as found in human male gamete [4][5]. Some of these synthetic chemical compounds can cause detrimental effects in animals such as reduction of sperm counts, changed pregnancy outcomes, congenital disabilities of male genitalia, etc. [6]. As a result, users have changed their liking and selected natural cosmetic products for usage [7]. Hence, the enlarging market for skincare formulations and constant look for an alternative natural constituents led to the production of a different types of cosmeceutical skin products [8].
Marine macroalgae (seaweeds) are macroscopic, multicellular, eukaryotic organisms that can perform photosynthesis due to presence of Chlorophyll and some other photosynthetic pigments. They are widely distributed along the coastal line (the intertidal and sub-tidal regions) and in brackish water [9]. Based on pigment composition, they can be classified into three types. Brown alga belongs to Ochrophyta phylum (Phaeophyceae class), red alga belongs to Rhodophyta phylum, and green alga belongs to Chlorophyta phylum. Among these three types, brown algae belong to the Chromista kingdom, whereas green and red algae belong to the Plantae kingdom [9][10]. Seaweeds have a more highly diversified bioactive constituents than terrestrial organisms [11]. These bioactive compounds have a wide range of biological activities which can be used in product preparation as an ingredient [12][13]. The applications of macroalgae in cosmeceutical formulations depends on their constituents (such as polysaccharides, carbohydrate derivatives, proteins, peptides, amino acids, phenolic compounds, vitamins, minerals, fatty acids, pigments, etc.) [14][15]. Many previous findings have reported the role of seaweed based bioactive compounds which offer antitumor, antiallergic, antimicrobial, antioxidant, antiinflammation, antilipidemic activity, antiwrinkle, anti-aging, moisturizing, and photoprotection activities [5][14][16][17][18].

2. Seaweed Derived Metabolites in Cosmetics

For the preparation of cosmeceutical products, macroalgae-derived compounds have been noted as being of significant importance [19]. Polysaccharides have a great role in cosmetics including in moisturizers, emulsifiers, wound healing agents, and thickening agents [20]. Fernando et al. [21] have reported anti-inflammation activity of Fucoidan from Chnoospora minima (Phaeophyceae) by inhibition of Lipopolysaccharides induced nitric oxide production, inducible nitric oxide productions, Cyclooxygenase-2, and Prostaglandin E2 levels in an experimental study by targeting RAW macrophages. Likewise, Ariede et al. [22], Wang et al. [23], and Teas and Irhimeh, [24] reported beneficial activities of Fucus vesiculosus (Figure 1a) (Phaeophyceae) derived polysaccharides such as anti-aging, anti-melanogenic, anti-cancer, and antioxidant activity by stimulating collagen production, tyrosinase inhibition, decreasing melanoma growth and by preventing oxidation formation, respectively. In addition, the anti-inflammation activity of sulphated polysaccharide from Padina tetrastromatica (Phaeophyceae) by COX-2 and iNOS inhibitions in an experimental model of Paw edema in rats [25]. Moreover, Khan et al. [26] reported the anti-inflammation activity of polyunsaturated fatty acids derived from Undaria Undaria pinnatifidapinnatifida (Figure 1b) (Phaeophyceae) on mouse ear edema and erythema. In vitro, the antioxidant activity of methanolic extracts from Osmundaria obtusilo and Palisada flagellifera (Rhodophyta) was studied by DPPH, ABTS, metal chelating, Folin ciocalteau, and beta-carotene bleaching assays [27][28]. Phenolic compound Sargachromanol E revealed antiaging activities from Sargassum Sargassum hornerihorneri (Phaeophyceae) by inhibition of matric metalloprotein expression on UVA irradiated dermal fibroblast [29].

Phycology 02 00010 g001 550
Figure 1. Seaweed species images: (a)—Fucus vesiculosus (P); (b)—Undaria pinnatifida (P); (c)—Schizymenia dubyi (R); (d)—Ulva linza (C); (e)—Bryopsis plumosa (C); (f)—Laminaria digitata (P); (g)—Palmaria palmata (R); (h)—Himanthalia elongata (P); (i)—Porphyra umbilicalis (R); (j)—Jania rubens (R); (k)—Gracilaria gracilis (R); (l)—Ceramium virgatum (R); (m)—Kappaphycus alvarezii (R); (n)—Ulva lactuca (C); (o)—Ascophyllum nodosum (P); (p)—Eucheuma denticulatum (R); C—Chlorophyta; R—Rhodophyta; P—Phaeophyceae; Scale = 1 cm.

3. Polysaccharides

Marine macroalgae derived polysaccharides are well known for their biological benefits. The presence of polysaccharides (ulvan, fucoidan, alginate, laminarin, carrageenan, sulphated polysaccharides, agar, and agarose) in macroalgae and noted their cosmeceutical benefits. Other examples of macroalgae derived polysaccharides and their cosmetic benefits are presented in Table 1.

Table 1.
Application of macroalgae derived polysaccharides in skin cosmetics.

4. Amino Acids

Protein is considered a macromolecule and polymer of amino acids. Pereira [67] reported the role of amino acids as a natural moisturizing factor that prevents water loss in the skin. Marine macroalgae are a satisfactory resource of various amino acids, such as glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, proline, arginine, serine, histidine, tyrosine, and some other mycosporine amino acids (MAAs). Marine macroalgae derived peptides and amino acids and its skin cosmetic benefits are illustrated in Table 2. In cosmeceutical products, amino acids usually function as a hydrating agent as a natural moisturizing factor in human skin [73].
Table 2.
Applications of macroalgae derived peptides and amino acids in skin cosmetics.
No. Name of Macroalgae Compounds Cosmetic Benefits References
1
[99].
Table 3.
Applications of macroalgae derived pigments in skin cosmetics.
No. Name of Macroalgae Pigment Cosmetic Benefits References
1
23
Gelidium crinale (R)
Carotenoids
Antioxidant
[
121
]
C, Chlorophyta; R, Rhodophyta; P, Phaeophyceae.

6. Phenolic Compounds

Phenolic compounds are one of the secondary metabolites that make an important group of components for skin cosmetic benefits. Due to wide varieties of biological actions, they can be incorporated in various skin cosmetic preparations. Theyr can be categorized into simple phenolic compounds and polyphenols, comprising bromophenols, phlorotannins, flavonoids, terpenoids, etc. [122]. Marine macroalgae0derived phenolic compounds and their cosmetic benefits are presented in Table 4.
Table 4.
Applications of macroalgae derived phenolic compounds in skin cosmetics.
No. Name of Macroalgae Phenolic Compound/s Characterization or Analysis of Phenolic Compounds References
1Scytosiphon lomentaria (P) Sargassum spp.Amino acids Antioxidant, Radical scavengers, Chelators Carotenoids, Astaxanthin, Beta-carotene, Fucoxanthin[74] Anticellulite, Antiaging, Antiphotoaging, antioxidant, antiviral [ Macrocystis pyrifera (P)100] Phlorotannins, Phloroeckol, Tetrameric phloroglucinol Antioxidant, Antidiabetic, Antiaging [123][75][76
2 Saccharina japonica (P)
[
153
]
C, Chlorophyta; R, Rhodophyta; P, Phaeophyceae.

76. Fatty Acids

Seaweeds are well known for various types of fatty acids such as glycolipids, triglycerides, sterols, and phospholipids. The chemical structures of marine algae derived fatty acids are illustrated in Figure 7. These have been reported as being higher in seaweed as compared to terrestrial plants. Different types of fatty acids from different macroalgae and its cosmetic benefits are presented in Table 5.
Table 5.
Applications of macroalgae derived lipids and fatty acids in skin cosmetics.
No. Name of Macroalgae Fatty acid Cosmetic Benefits References
]
1 Chondrus crispus

Chondrus crispus

(Figure 3b) (R)		 EPA, AA, DHA, GLA, LA, Palmitic acid, Oleic acid Antiallergic, Anti-aging, Anti-inflammation, Antiwrinkle, Antimicrobial, Emollients, [154]
2 Gracilaria vermiculophylla (R) Porphyra-334, Palythine, Asterina-330, Shinorine Antioxidant, UV protector 2 Ascophyllum nodosum

Ascophyllum nodosum

(Figure 1
2o) (Figure 1o) (P)[77]
P)Fucoxanthin Undaria pinnatifida

Inhibition of tyrosinase and Melanogenesis in UVB irradiated Undaria pinnatifida

(Figure 1b) (Figure 1b) (P)[101]		 3 Ulva lactuca (
Ascophyllan MMP inhibition P)[ PUFA124] Anti-inflammatory [154] Figure 1n) (C),

Asparagopsis armata (R)		Ulva lactuca (Figure 1n) (C),

Asparagopsis armata

(Figure 3c) (R)		 MAAs, Amino acids Antiaging, Anti wrinkles, Improves collagen formation [78]
3 Cladosiphon okamuranus (P) Fucoxanthin Antioxidant, DPPH inhibition [102]
3 Cystoseira foeniculacea (P) Polyphenol
3 Ulva lactuca

Ulva lactuca

(Figure 1n) (Figure 1n) (P)		Antioxidant P)[125] Fatty acid such as C18 and C16 type In-vitro and in-vivo Nrf2-ARE activation, Cell protective, Antioxidant [155] 4 Pelvetia canaliculata

(P)		Pelvetia canaliculata

(		 4 Neopyropia yezoensis®Figure 3 Phycoerythrin Antioxidant, Anticancer, Antiinflammatory [
4d) (P) Amino acids Antioxidant, Collagen formation, Proteoglycan’s synthesis [ Stephanocystis hakodatensis (P)79]
103 Phenol] Antioxidant [126
4]
Phaeophyceae

(Brown algae) (P)		 Unsaturated Fatty acids Antioxidant [156] 5 Gracilaria chilensis, Pyropia plicata, Champia novae-zelandiae (R) 5 Ecklonia cava subsp. Stolonifera (P)
5 Ulva lactuca

Ulva lactuca

MAAs (Figure 1n) Anti UV, Antioxidant (Figure 1n) (P)Fucofuroeckol-A[ P)80]
LipopeptidesProtection against UVB radiation Inhibition of elastase, enhance collagen synthesis[127] 6
[157] Ulva lactuca

(Figure 1n) (C)		 Arginine, Aspartic acid, Glycine 7 Corallina pilulifera (R) Phlorotannins
6 Himanthalia elongata

Himanthalia elongata

Enhance collagen and elastin synthesis (Figure 1h) (Figure 1h) (P)Antiaging, antiinflammatio, antioxidants, antiallergic, UV screens[80]
P)[128] Fatty acids and volatile compounds Antioxidant, Antimicrobial [158] 7 Porphyra umbilicalis

(Figure 1i) (R)		 PortieriMAAs, (2:1 ratio of Porphyra-334 and Shinorine) ®Antiaging p. (R) Phycobiliproteins, Phycoerythrin, Phycocyanin Antioxidants, anti-inflammatory, Colorants, Radical scavenger[81]
[107]
8 Ishige foliacea (P) Phlorotannin Antimelanogenic, inhibition of tyrosinase and melanin synthesis
7 Porphyridium purpureum (R) Eicosapentaenoic acid, Docosahexaenoic acid, Eicosatetraenoic acid, Polyunsaturated omega-3 fatty acids[ Antioxidant, Anti-inflammatory, Anti-photoaging129] [159][130] 8 Palmaria palmata

(		 8Figure 1g),

Catenella caespitosa (R)		 MAAs UV and UV-A protection Cladophora glomerata (C) Chlorophyll[ Tissue growth stimulators82]
10 Laminaria ochroleuca

Laminaria ochroleuca

(Figure 3f) (P)		[108]
Polyphenol Antioxidant
8 Ulva rigidaUlva rigida (Figure 3m) (C), Gracilaria Gracilaria sp. (Rsp. (R), Fucus vesiculosus (Figure 1a), Fucus vesiculosus Saccharina latissima

(Figure 1a3g), Saccharina latissima

[131 9 Porphyra sp.,

Catenella caespitosa (R), Padina crassa, Desmarestia aculeata (P)		 9 Neopyropia y®ensisMAAs such as Aminocyclohexenone-type, Aminocyclohexene imine-type (R)Photoprotection, Antiaging, Anti-inflammatory, Antioxidant [83]
Porphyran Antioxidant, Anti-inflammatory [109] [161][162] 10 Curdiea racovitzae, Iridaea cordata (R) Palythine, asterina-330 Antioxidant, Anti-UV, Antiaging [84]
10 U® lactuca (C) Carotenoids such as astaxanthin, beta-carotene, fucoxanthin, lutein Anti-inflammatory, Antiaging, Tyrosinase inhibition, Antioxidants, Photoprotective [106
10 Gracilariopsis longissima (R), Saccharina japonica (P) (8E)-10-oxo-8-octadecenoic acid, (E)-9-oxo-10-octadecenoic acid, Myristic acid, Palmitic acid Anti-inflammatory]
[163] 11 Rhodophyta (R) Lutein Skin whitening [110]
11 Silvetia siliquosa (P) Fucosterol Antioxidant, Stimulate antioxidant enzymes such as catalase, glutathione peroxidase [164][165] 12 Paraglossum lancifolium (R) Palmaria palmata (Figure 1g), Porphyra umbilicalis

(Figure 1i) (R)		 MAAs Antiaging, Collagenase inhibition [97][98]
C, Chlorophyta; R, Rhodophyta; P, Phaeophyceae.

5. Pigments

Marine macroalgae have a broad diversity of photosynthetic pigments that capture light for the photosynthesis process. Chlorophyta (green algae) contain chlorophyll a, chlorophyll b, and carotenoids; Rhodophyta (red algae) contain chlorophyll a, phycobilin (phycocyanin, phycoerythrin), and carotenoids (carotene, lutein, zeaxanthin), and Phaeophyceae (brown algae) contain chlorophyll a, chlorophyll c, fucoxanthin, and different carotenoid pigments. Different macroalgae-derived pigments and cosmetic applications are reported in Table 3. These pigments provide a shield to the skin cells against harmful UV radiations
5
Gracilaria gracilis, Porpyridium sp. (R) Phycobiliprotein pigment such as R-phycoerythrin, Phycocyanin, Allophycocyanins Antioxidant, Skin whitening activity by Antimelanogenic activity [104]
6 Cladophora glomera®(C) Chlorophyll a, Chlorophyll b, Chlorophyll c, Chlorophyll d Antibacterial, Antioxidant, Colorants, Deodorizer [105][106][107]
7
]
(P)(P) Lipidic profile Antioxidant [160] 11 Caulerpa racemo®(C) Flavonoids, Hydroquinone, Saponins Tyrosinase inhibitor [132]
12 Ecklonia cava (P) Dioxinodehydroeckol UV B protective [133]
11 Porphyra sp. (R) Protein and hydrolysates Moisture retention capacity and viscosifying agent [85][86]
13 Ecklonia cava subsp. stolonifera (P) Phlorotannins Inhibition of Matric metalloproteins (MMPs), Antiwrinkle, Tyrosinase inhibitor, Skin whitener [134] 12 Palmaria sp., Porphyra sp. (R) High amounts of Glycine and Arginine Lipid soluble pigments such as Xanthophyll and CarotenoidsNatural moisturizing factor [
1487]


Beta-carotene, Lutein Antioxidant, Anti-inflammatory, Antiphotoaging, Photoprotection, Anti-photoaging
14 Saccharina latissimaSaccharina latissima (Figure 3g) (P)[ Phenol111]
9 Sargassum fusiforme (P) Fucosterol Protection against photodamage, UVB protector, MMP inhibition, Enhance procollagen formation, Anti-inflammatoryAntioxidant [135] Sargassum fusiforme (P) Fucosterol Anti-aging, MMP inhibition [166] 13 Chondrus crispus, Mastocarpus stellatus, Palmaria palmata (Chondrus crispus ( 13Figure 3Figure 1g) (R)b), Mastocarpus stellatus (Figure 3e), Palmaria palmata (Figure 1g) (R) Undaria pinnatifida (P)Palythine, Usujirene, Porphyra-334, Shinorine, Asterina, palythinol Antioxidant, Anti-proliferation [88]
Fucoxanthin Photoprotective [112]
15 Ecklonia cava (P) Dieckol Anti-adipogenesis [136]
15 Codium fragile (C) Sterol Anti-inflammatory [167] 14 Pelvetia canaliculata

(P)		Pelvetia canaliculata

(Figure 3d) (P)		 Amino acids Antioxidant, Collagen synthesis, Proteoglycan synthesis stimulation [89]
14 Porphyra sp. (P) Zeaxanthin, Alpha and beta carotene Anti-inflammatory, Photoprotection, Antioxidant, Antiaging
16 Ecklonia cava subsp. kurome (P)[ Phlorotannin113]
Anti-inflammatory, Hyaluronidase inhibition [137] 15 Laminaria digitata (Figure 1f) (P) Proteins Lipolytic 15 Gracilaria gracilisGracilaria gracilis (Figure 1[90]
17k) (Figure 1k) (R)R) Phycobiliproteins (R-phycoerythrin allophycocyanin, Phycocyanin) Antioxidant Caulerp®p. (C)[104]
Flavonoids, Phenols Tyrosinase inhibitors [138 16 Neopyropia yezoensis (R) 16Peptide PPy1 Anti-inflammatory [91]
Sargassum siliquastrum (P) Fucoxanthin Skin protector, Antiphotoaging, Antiwrinkle [114]
]
18 Rhodomela conf®oides (R) Polyphenol, Bromophenol Antioxidant, Antimicrobial, DPPH inhibition [139] 17 Palmaria palmata

(Figure 1g) (R)		 MAAs UV protector 17 Ulva lactuca (C)[ Zeaxanthin, Neoxanthin, Antheraxanthin, Siphonein, Siphoxanthin,92]
Photoprotection, Antiphotoaging, Anti-inflammatory [115]
19 Eisenia bicyclis, Ecklonia Cava subsp. stolonifera (P) Eckol Anti-inflammation, Skin whitening activity [140][141] 18 Sargassum polycystum (P) Amino acids and amines Anti-melanogenic or skin whitening effect [93][ 1894 Himanthalia elongata (P)]
20 Schizymenia dubyi Fucoxanthin extract Schizymenia dubyi (Figure 1c) Antioxidant (Figure 1c) (R)R)[ Phenol116][95]
Anti-melanogenic, Tyrosinase inhibition [142] 19 Porphyra umbilicalis

(Figure 1i) (R)		 Porphyra-334, Shinorine 19 Ascophyllum nodosum (P)
21 Cystoseira compressa

Cystoseira compressa

(Figure 3		Moisturization, Skin protector, Antiwrinkle, Protect against roughness Fucoxanthin[96]
h) Antiagin, Antiwrinkle (P) Fuhalol Antioxidant[117]
[143] 21 Porphyra yezoensis f. coreana (R) Peptides, PYP1-5, porphyra-334 Enhance Elastin and collagen formation, reduce MMP expression [96]
20 Fucus vesiculosus (P) Fucoxanthin
 Antioxidant Cystoseira compressa

Cystoseira compressa

(Figure 3h) (P)		[ Fuhalol118] 22
Antioxidant [143] 21 Phaeophyta Fucoxanthin Antiphotoaging [119]
22 Ecklonia cava (P) dieckol Promotes hair growth [144] 22 Sargassum siliquastrum (P) Fucoxanthin
23 Fucus vesiculosusFucus vesiculosus (Figure 1a), Gongolaria nodicaulis (Figure Anti-melanogenic (skin whitening effect), Antioxidant, Anti-inflammatory 1a3i), Gongolaria nodicaulisEricaria selaginoides (Figure 3j), Ericaria selaginoidesGongolaria usneoides (Figure 3k), Gongolaria usneoides, Ecklonia cava[120]
(P)Ecklonia cava (P) Phlorotannins such as Fucophloroethol, Fucodiphloroethol, Fucotripholoroethol, Phlorofucofuroeckol bieckol or dieckol Skin whitening effect, Antioxidant, Anti-inflammatory, Antihistamine, Photoprotection [145]
24 Ascophyllum nodosum

Ascophyllum nodosum

(Figure 1o) (Figure 1o) (P)P)		 Phlorotannins, Eckols, Fucols, Phlorethols Inhibition of tyrosinase, Anti-inflammation, Anti UV, Anti-allergic, Chelators, Antiaging, Hyaluronidase inhibitor [145]
25 Meristotheca dakarensis (R) Glucosaminoglycan Anti-aging, Collagen synthesis [12]
26 Gongolaria nodicaulisGongolaria nodicaulis,

Ericaria selaginoides,

Ericaria selaginoides,

Gongolaria usneoides (P)Gongolaria usneoides (Figure 3k) (P)		 Phlorotannins such as bioeckol, 7-phloroeckol, phlorofucofuroeckol, fucophloroethol Anti-inflammation, Antioxidant, Anti-aging, Inhibition of hyaluronidase [145]
27 Fucus spiralis

Fucus spiralis

(Figure 3l) (P)		 Phlorotannins Inhibition of lipid peroxidation, hyaluronidase inhibitor, antiaging, antiwrinkle, Anti-inflammatory, Antiwrinkle [145]
28 Ecklonia cava, Ecklonia cava subsp. stolonifera (P) Eckol, 6,6′-bieckol, doeckol, Phlorofucofuroeckol-A, 8,8′-bieckol Anti-allergic [146]
29 Eisenia bicyclis, Ecklonia cava subsp. stolonifera Phlorofucofuroeckol A Hepatoprotective, Anti-tyrosinase [147][148]
30 Eisenia arborea, Ecklonia bicyclis (P) Phlorotannins Anti-inflammation, Hyaluronidase inhibitor, antiwrinkle [149]
31 Eisenia arborea (P) Phlorofucofuroeckol A Anti-allergic [150]
32 Ascophyllum nodosum

(Figure 1o),

Fucus serratusAscophyllum nodosum

(Figure 1o),

Fucus serratus (Figure 3n), Himanthalia elongata (Figure 1h), Himanthalia elongata

Sargassum muticum (Figure 1h),

Sargassum muticum (P)P)		 Phlorotannins Antioxidant, Antibacterial, antiviral, photoprotection, Anti-inflammatory [151][152][153]
33 Ecklonia cava (P) Eckols, fucols, phlorethols, Fuhalols, fucophlorethol Anti-aging, Anti-inflammation, Hyaluronidase inhibitor, antiallergic, UV protector
No. Name of Macroalgae Polysaccharides Cosmetic Benefits References
1 Ulva lactuca

Ulva lactuca

(Figure 1n) (Figure 1n) (C)C)		 SP (Ulvan) Antioxidant, Moisturizer, Photoprotective [30]
  Neopyropia yezoensis (R) Porphyran Antiinflammation [31][32]
2 PorphyridiumPorphyridium sp.* (R),

Costaria cosp.* (Rtata (P),

Costaria costata (P), Ulva lactuca ( Ulva lactuca (Figure 1Figure 1n) (C)n) (C)		 Sulphated polysaccharides Antioxidant,

Anti-inflammatory,

Antiaging		 [33]
3 Fucus vesiculosus (Figure 1a) Fucoidans Antiaging, Antiwrinkle [34]
4 Ascophyllum nododum

(Figure 1Ascophyllum nododum

(Figure 1o),

Chnoospo)ra minima,

Chnoospora minimaSargassum fusiforme,

Saccharina japonica, Sargassum polycystum,

Sargassum fusiforme,

Saccharina japonica, Sargassum polycystum,

S. vachellianum,

S. hemiphyllum (P)S. vachellianum,

S. hemiphyllum (P)		 Fucoidans Photoprotection, Anti photoaging

Anti-inflammatory,

Anti-elastase, Anti-collagenase, Skin whitening		 [35][36][37][38]
5 Fucus vesiculosus

Fucus vesiculosus

(Figure 1a) (Figure 1a) (P)P)		 Fucoidan Anticoagulant Antioxidant, Enhancer of Skin fibroblast formation [39]
6 Neoporphyra haitanensis (R) Porphyran Antioxidant [40][41]
7 Saccharina longicruris (P) Laminaran Anti-inflammation, Antioxidant, Reconstruction of dermis [42][43]
8 Saccharina longicruris (P) Galactofucans Enhance fibroblast formation, Increase synthesis of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) complex and collagen-1 [44]
9 Eucheuma denticulatum

Eucheuma denticulatum

(Figure 1p) (Figure 1p) (R)R)		 Carrageenan Antioxidant, photoprotection [45]
10 Gelidium sp. (R) Agar Thickener [46]
11 AscophyllumAscophyllum sp.,

Fucus sp.,

FSargassucus sp.,

Sargassum sp., Undaria sp. (P)m sp., Undaria sp. (P)		 Laminaran Anticellulite [47]
12 Saccharina cichorioides (P) Fucoidan Anti-atopic dermatitis [48]
13 Corallina officinalis Corallina officinalis

(R)Figure 3a) (R)		 Sulphated polysaccharides Antioxidant [49]
14 Ulva australis (C) Ulvan Antiaging [50][51]
15 Acanthophora muscoides (R) Sulphated polysaccharides-Carrageenan Anticoagulant, Antinociceptive, antiinflammation, Gel agents [52][53][54]
17 Chondrus crispus (R) Carrageenan Gel and Thickening agent, Skin moisturizer [55]
18 Ulva rigidaUlva rigida (Figure 3m),

U. pseudorotundata (C)		 Sulphated polysaccharides Antioxidant, Chelators, Gel agents, Moisturizer [56]
19 Ascophyllum nodosum

Ascophyllum nodosum

(Figure 1o) (Figure 1o) (P)P)		 Fucoidan Anti-inflammation, Antiviral, Antiaging, Anti elastase, Photoprotective, Tyrosinase inhibition, Anticellulite [57]
20 Gracilaria sp. (R) Agar Thickener [58]
21 Padina boergesenii (P) Sulphated polysaccharides Formation of collagen [59]
22 Macrocystis sp., Lessonia sp., Laminaria sp. (P) Alginate Gelling and Stabilizing agent, Moisturizer, Chelator [60][61]
24 Kjellmaniella crassifolia Fucoidan Antiaging, Antiwrinkle [62]
25 Brown algae (P) Alginate Thickening agent

Gelling agent		 [63]
27 Sargassum

vachellianum (P)		 Polysaccharides Skin moisturizer and protectors [64]
28 Fucus vesiculosus (Figure 1Fucus vesiculosus (Figure 1a),

Laminaria digitata),

Laminaria digitata (Figure 1f),

Undaria pinnatifida (Figure 1fb) (P),

Undaria pinnatifida (Figure 1b) (P)		 Fucoidan Antioxidant, Antiaging,

Anticoagulant, Increase skin fibroblast formulation		 [65][66]
29 Ascophyllum nodosum

Ascophyllum nodosum

(Figure 1o) (Figure 1o) (P)P)		 Fucoidan Anti-elastase, gelatinase A inhibition, Inhibition of interleukin-1 beta in fibroblast cells [67]
30 Ecklonia cava (P) Phlorotannins Photoprotectors against UV-B [68][69]
31 Neoporphyra haitanensisNeoporphyra haitanensis,

Gracilaria chouae,

Gracilaria chouae,

G. blodgetti (R)G. blodgetti (R)		 Agar Antioxidant,

Thickeners

Antitumor,

Radiation protector,

Antiaging		 [70][71]
32 Turbinaria conoides (P) Laminarin, Alginate, Fucoidan Antioxidant [72]
SP, Sulphated Polysaccharides; C, Chlorophyta; R, Rhodophyta; P, Phaeophyceae; * Microalgae. C, Chlorophyta; R, Rhodophyta; P, Phaeophyceae.

87. Minerals

Depending on the environment in which macroalgae inhabit, they are highly diversified in mineral composition (especially with regards to trace elements including zinc, magnesium, aluminum, silica, copper, iodine, selenium, iron, manganese, and micronutrients including calcium, sodium, phosphorus, potassium, and chlorine). Minerals have a very essential vital role as cofactors of different metalloenzymes [168]. Moreover, a combination of calcium and magnesium improves barrier repairs in topical skincare products [169]. Indeed, acid-induced burns are relieved by gel solution containing calcium gluconate solution [170]. Likewise, magnesium silicate (talc) and magnesium sulphate (i.e., Epsom salts) have reported enhancement of skin benefits. Talc is most frequently useful in baby skin powders to prevent diaper rash. In adults, it can be used as a lubricant and to reduce wetness in the perineal and axillary areas [171]. In addition, Boisseau et al. [172] found improvements in skin softness and exfoliation, relief in muscle tension, and the promotion of relaxation by Epsom salts. They also reported the key regulatory role of Mg++ and Ca++ in the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes. Likewise, magnesium silicate (talc) and magnesium sulphate (Epsom salts) have reported enhancement of skin benefits. Talc is most frequently useful in baby skin powders to prevent diaper rash as well as in adults to reduce wetness in the perineal and axilla areas (and as a lubricant) [173]. They also reported the key regulatory role of Mg++ and Ca++ in the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes. ZnO-based skin protectants are cost-effective, easily formulated, and stable under aerobic conditions [173][174]. Zinc oxide is superior to zinc sulphate to mitigate inflammation and enhance re-epithelization of partial-thickness porcine skin [175]. Due to low water solubility, it sustains in the skin at the wound site. Newman et al. [176] revealed the importance of skin in sunburned skin and under ultraviolet exposure. Bissett et al. [177] found significantly delayed UV-induced tumors in Guinea pigs and mouse models by topical use of a 2-furildioxime (iron chelator).

98. Summary

Macroalgae are a valuable resource of bioactive components, with scientific evidence revealing their benefits for safer use in humans and wellbeing. Marine algae-derived molecules showed biological effects on the skin, such as skin whitening, antiaging, antiwrinkle, photoprotection, moisturizing, and collagen-boosting, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anticellulite, antiviral, and anticancer activities. Moreover, many cosmeceutical companies already use marine algae extracts and have derived compounds from these extracts in their formulations. However, the biochemical profile monitoring of macroalgae presents a problem that industries need to overcome. The development of its cultivation and sustainable methods of extraction procedures shows the significant key for this confined, which is being analyzed with noteworthy benefits. However, more detail analysis requires to understand the exact mechanism of some compounds since some compounds have not been fully explored. Therefore, the further analysis and evaluation are essential to improve the quality of cosmetic formulations which will be useful to enhance consumers safety.

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