Illicium verum Hook f. (Star Anise)

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This entry is adapted from the peer-reviewed paper 10.3390/molecules27030650

Illicium verum Hook f. (star anise) is considered an important species in Traditional Chinese Medicine and is also used in contemporary medicine in East Asian countries. It occurs in natural habitats in southeastern parts of China and Vietnam, and is cultivated in various regions in China. The raw materials—Anisi stellati fructus and Anisi stellati aetheroleum obtained from this species exhibit expectorant and spasmolytic activities. The European Pharmacopoeia (4th edition) indicates that these raw materials have been used in allopathy since 2002. The biological activities of the above-mentioned raw materials are determined by the presence of valuable secondary metabolites such as monoterpenoids, sesquiterpenoids, phenylpropanoids, and flavonoids. Recent pharmacological studies on fruit extracts and the essential oil of this species have confirmed their antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant activities and thus their medicinal and cosmetic value.

star anise cosmetic importance

1. Introduction

Illicium verum Hook f. (star anise, Chinese star anise) is a woody species commonly known as ba jiao hui xiang in China and is used in traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) as a therapeutic agent ^[1]. In line with the guidelines of the Chinese Pharmacopoeia ^[2], contemporary Chinese medicine recommends I. verum as a valuable medicinal plant. In addition, two raw materials obtained from I. verum (fruit—Anisi stellati fructus and essential oil—Anisi stellati aetheroleum) have been listed in The European Pharmacopoeia since 2002 (4th edition) ^[3]. Both of these materials exhibit expectorant and spasmolytic effects.

Nowadays, I. verum is an important medicinal plant worldwide. The recent scientific studies have proven that the fruit and essential oil of I. verum are characterized by biological activities such as antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant effects ^[4]. The plant is also widely used in the food industry as a spice ^[1].

The main component of the I. verum essential oil is trans-anethole. It is extensively used in food, perfume, and pharmaceutical industries due to its sweet flavor and aromatic scent ^[5]. Moreover, according to recent studies, trans-anethole possesses antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-obesity properties, which are also significant in terms of cosmetology and medicine.

2. Uses Based on the CosIng Database

According to the CosIng (Cosmetic Ingredient) database elaborated by the European Commission ^[6], I. verum can be used for the production of cosmetics. The following raw materials of I. verum can be used for this purpose: fruit extract, fruit essential oil, fruit hydrolat, fruit powder, and seed or leaf essential oil (Table 1 and Table 2). The extract of I. verum fruit can be used as a skin conditioning component and to mask unpleasant odors. The essential oil obtained from its seeds can be used as a fragrance or an oral-hygiene ingredient. Similarly, the essential oil obtained from I. verum leaves can be used as a skin-conditioning agent or as a fragrance and also has deodorizing properties. Fruit hydrolat can also be used as a fragrance ^[6].

Table 1. Uses of I. verum in cosmetics according to CosIng database.

Form	Function
Illicium verum fruit extract	Perfuming, skin conditioning
Illicium verum fruit water	Fragrance, perfuming
Illicium verum fruit powder	Exfoliating
Illicium verum fruit oil	Perfuming
Illicium verum seed oil	Fragrance, oral care, tonic
Illicium verum leaf oil	Flavoring, fragrance, skin conditioning

Table 2. I. verum as a cosmetic ingredient.

Manufacturer	Country	Trade Name	Form	Form of I. verum in a Composition of the Cosmetic (INCI) According to the Manufacturer	Function
MUGLER www.mugler.com	France	Cuir Impertinent	Perfumed water	Star Anise—top note	Perfuming
Tonymoly www.tonymoly.us	Korea	I’M POMEGRANATE Mask Sheet	Mask sheet	Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract	Moisturizing, elasticizing
		I’M REAL Makgeolli Mask Sheet	Mask sheet	Illicium verum (Anise) Extract	Smoothing, moisturizing
		I’M AVOCADO Nutrition Beauty Mask Sheet	Mask sheet	Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract	Nourishing, revitalizing
		I’M RED WINE Pore Care Beauty Mask Sheet	Mask sheet	Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract	Cleansing, tightening
Elizavecca www.elizavecca.com	Korea	Pore Clean Up AHA Fruit Toner	Cleansing toner	Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract	Exfoliating, cleansing, moisturizing
		Gold CF-NEST Collagen Jella Pack Beauty Mask	Face mask	Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract	Elasticizing, firming, exfoliating
		Gold CF-NEST, White Bomb Eye Cream	Eye cream	Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract	Brightening, smoothing
		Skin Liar Primer	Face primer	Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract	Brightening, smoothing
		Perfect Sparking Peeling Pad	Peeling pad	Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract	Cleansing, exfoliating
Klairs www.klairscosmetics.com	Korea	Rich Moist Soothing Serum	Serum	Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract	Moisturizing, soothing
		Freshly Juiced Vitamin Drop Serum	Serum	Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract	Brightening, smoothing, improving the skin condition
		Rich Moist Foaming Cleanser	Foaming cleanser	Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract	Moisturizing, soothing, refreshing, cleansing
		Supple Preparation All Over Lotion	Lotion	Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract	Moisturizing, protective, soothing
Son & Park www.en.sonandpark.com	Korea	Beauty Water	Cleansing water/ toner	Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit/Seed Oil	Moisturizing, refreshing, exfoliating, cleansing
COSRX www.cosrx.com	Korea	Low pH Barrier Mist	Face mist	Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract	Moisturizing, refreshing, elasticizing, restoring pH balance
D’Alba www.dalbaglobal.com	Korea	White Truffle Whitening	Cream	Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract	Brightening, protective, elasticizing
Missha www.missha.com	Korea	Real Solution Tencel Sheet Mask	Sheet mask	Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract	Moisturizing, soothing, strengthening the skin natural barrier
Aromatica www.thearomatica.com	Korea	Rosemary Scalp Scaling Shampoo	Shampoo	Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract	Nourishing, exfoliating
Doctor Babor www.babor.com	Germany	3D Hydro Gel Face Mask	Face mask	Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract	Moisturizing, elasticizing, refreshing, toning
Oceanic www.oceanic.com.pl	Poland	Facial Sheet Mask Rose + Phytocollagen	Sheet mask	Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract	Regenerating, smoothing, improving the skin condition
Oceanic www.oceanic.com.pl	Poland	Facial Sheet Mask Lemon + Vitamin C	Sheet mask	Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract	Brightening, smoothing, rejuvenating, revitalizing
EO Laboratorie www.ec-l.ru/en	Russia	Smoothness& Tonus Scrub	Scrub	Illicium verum Oil	Elasticizing, moisturizing, softening, exfoliating
PIXI www.pixibeauty.com	United States	Rose Glow Mist	Mist	Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract	Moisturizing, refreshing, elasticizing, protective against free radicals
		Glow Glycolic Boost	Sheet mask	Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract	Brightening, moisturizing
		Rose Caviar Essense	Flower oil	Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract	Moisturizing, softening, nourishing
Eco-Dent www.eco-dent.com	Unites States	GentleFloss Mint	Dental floss	Illicium verum Oil	Refreshing, anti-cavity
Jason Natural www.jason-personalcare.com	United States	Powersmile, Antiplaque &Whitening Toothpaste	Toothpaste	Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit/Seed Oil	Whitening, reducing unpleasant odor
Kerosene www.houseofkerosene.com	Unites States	Black Vines	Perfumed water	Star Anise	Perfuming
Dr Bronner’s www.drbronner.com	Great Britain	Peppermint Toothpaste	Toothpaste	Organic Illicium verum (Anise) Seed Oil	Whitening, refreshing, reducing plaque
Jo Malone www.jomalone.com	Great Britain	Vanilla & Anise Cologne	Cologne	Star Anise—top note	Perfuming
DIESEL www.diesel.com	Italy	Loverdose	Perfumed water	Star Anise—top note	Perfuming
OUDFACTORY www.oudfactory.com	United Arab Emirates	Moya Kvitka	Perfumed water	Star Anise	Perfuming

3. Safety of Use

According to the Flavor and Extract Manufacturers Association (FEMA) ^[7], the main component of I. verum essential oil, trans-anethole, is “generally recognized as safe” (GRAS).

A report of the European Medicines Agency (EMA—The European Agency for the Evaluation of Medical Products and Veterinary Medicines and Information Technology Unit) ^[8] stated that I. verum fruit and essential oil can be used as an expectorant or stomachic in humans. In addition, it can be used as a spice and in alcoholic beverages, sweets, or toothpastes. The recommended average daily dose of I. verum fruit for humans is 3 g and that of essential oil is 0.3 g. The same report also indicated that I. verum fruit can be included as a component in veterinary preparations at a concentration of 2.88%, along with other active ingredients. The common uses of preparations containing I. verum in cattle, sheep, and goats are to treat gastric disorders such as forestomach atony or acute indigestion. For cattle weighing more than 200 kg, the appropriate dose of I. verum is 20 g, while for sheep and goats it is 15 g lower ^[8].

Despite its safety, in 2003 the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) issued a warning against the consumption of teas containing I. verum fruit, which was linked with side effects such as vomiting, nausea, convulsions, hypertonia, hypothermia and rapid eye movements. It was also reported that the teas can be contaminated with toxic I. anisatum ^[9].

Nakamura et al. ^[10] reported that the oral administration of veranisatin A, veranisatin B and veranisatin C caused acute toxicity in animal studies.

4. Conclusions

Illicium verum is an important species that was widely used in TCM. Both the fruit and the essential oil are pharmacopoeial raw materials and have been used for many years to treat rheumatism, insomnia, or digestive disorders. The valuable properties of I. verum fruits are attributed to its unique chemical composition with abundant amounts of phenylpropanoids, mono- and sesquiterpenoids.

Numerous scientific studies have shown that I. verum fruit and essential oil exhibit strong biological activities such as antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant effects. Due to these properties, I. verum can be used in the cosmetic industry.

The essential oil of I. verum is a rich source of trans-anethole (over 72%). Trans-anethole (E-anethole) is an isomer of anethole and gives I. verum its characteristic aroma, which favors the application of this species in perfumery and cosmetic industry.

Numerous investigations confirm that I. verum can be effective as an antibacterial or antifungal agent in food manufacturing or medicne. It can be used in the treatment of a dry cough or bronchitis. The anti-inflammatory activity of I. verum enables the potential use of the plant in cases of skin diseases. Due to I. verum having proven expectorant properties, it can also be widely used for the production of antitussives. The pleasant anise-like smell can be used in the production of natural breath fresheners.

Besides medical applications, I. verum can offer a wealth of opportunities for cosmetics applications, which are largely determined by the presence of trans-anethole. According to its antioxidant activities, it can be extensively used not only in perfume production, but also in anti-aging cosmetics. Besides, proven anti-obesity properties make the trans-anethole a potential natural dietary supplement.

References

Wang, G.W.; Hu, W.T.; Huang, B.K.; Qin, L.P. Illicium verum: A review on its botany, traditional use, chemistry and pharmacology. J. Ethnopharmacol. 2011, 136, 10–20.
Chinese Pharmacopoeia Commission. Pharmacopoeia of the People’s Republic of China; China Chemical Industry Press: Beijing, China, 2005.
European Directorate for the Quality of Medicines & Health Care. European Pharmacopoeia, 4th ed.; EDQM: Strasbourg, France, 2002.
Patra, J.K.; Das, G.; Bose, S.; Banerjee, S.; Vishnuprasad, C.N.; del Pilar Rodriguez-Torres, M.; Shin, H.S. Star anise (Illicium verum): Chemical compounds, antiviral properties, and clinical relevance. Phyther. Res. 2020, 34, 1248–1267.
Aprotosoaie, A.C.; Costache, I.I.; Miron, A. Anethole and its role in chronic diseases. Adv. Exp. Med. Biol. 2016, 929, 247–267.
Cosmetic Ingredient Database (CosIng). Available online: www.ec.europa.eu (accessed on 1 September 2021).
Newberne, P.; Smith, R.L.; Doull, J.; Goodman, J.I.; Munro, I.C.; Portoghese, P.S.; Wagner, B.M.; Weil, C.S.; Woods, L.A.; Adams, T.B.; et al. The FEMA GRAS assessment of trans-anethole used as a flavouring substance. Food Chem. Toxicol. 1999, 37, 789–811.
European Medicines Agency (EMA). Anisi Stellati Fructus. In The European Agency for the Evaluation of Medical Products Veterinary Medicines and Informaion Technology Unit; European Medicines Agency: London, UK, 2000.
Ulbricht, C.E. Star anise. In Natural Standard Herb And Supplement Guide: An Evidence-Based Reference; Mosby Elsevier: Amsterdam, The Netherlands, 2010; pp. 677–678.
Nakamura, T.; Okuyama, E.; Yamazaki, M. Neurotropic Components from Star Anise (Illicium verum Hook. fil.). Chem. Pharm. Bull. 1977, 57, 364–370.

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