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Illicium verum Hook f. (star anise) is considered an important species in Traditional Chinese Medicine and is also used in contemporary medicine in East Asian countries. It occurs in natural habitats in southeastern parts of China and Vietnam, and is cultivated in various regions in China. The raw materials—Anisi stellati fructus and Anisi stellati aetheroleum obtained from this species exhibit expectorant and spasmolytic activities. The European Pharmacopoeia (4th edition) indicates that these raw materials have been used in allopathy since 2002. The biological activities of the above-mentioned raw materials are determined by the presence of valuable secondary metabolites such as monoterpenoids, sesquiterpenoids, phenylpropanoids, and flavonoids. Recent pharmacological studies on fruit extracts and the essential oil of this species have confirmed their antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant activities and thus their medicinal and cosmetic value.
- star anise
- cosmetic importance
1. Introduction
Illicium verum Hook f. (star anise, Chinese star anise) is a woody species commonly known as ba jiao hui xiang in China and is used in traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) as a therapeutic agent [1]. In line with the guidelines of the Chinese Pharmacopoeia [2], contemporary Chinese medicine recommends I. verum as a valuable medicinal plant. In addition, two raw materials obtained from I. verum (fruit—Anisi stellati fructus and essential oil—Anisi stellati aetheroleum) have been listed in The European Pharmacopoeia since 2002 (4th edition) [3]. Both of these materials exhibit expectorant and spasmolytic effects.
Nowadays, I. verum is an important medicinal plant worldwide. The recent scientific studies have proven that the fruit and essential oil of I. verum are characterized by biological activities such as antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant effects [4]. The plant is also widely used in the food industry as a spice [1].
The main component of the I. verum essential oil is trans-anethole. It is extensively used in food, perfume, and pharmaceutical industries due to its sweet flavor and aromatic scent [5]. Moreover, according to recent studies, trans-anethole possesses antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-obesity properties, which are also significant in terms of cosmetology and medicine.
2. Uses Based on the CosIng Database
According to the CosIng (Cosmetic Ingredient) database elaborated by the European Commission [6][37], I. verum can be used for the production of cosmetics. The following raw materials of I. verum can be used for this purpose: fruit extract, fruit essential oil, fruit hydrolat, fruit powder, and seed or leaf essential oil (Table 12 and Table 23). The extract of I. verum fruit can be used as a skin conditioning component and to mask unpleasant odors. The essential oil obtained from its seeds can be used as a fragrance or an oral-hygiene ingredient. Similarly, the essential oil obtained from I. verum leaves can be used as a skin-conditioning agent or as a fragrance and also has deodorizing properties. Fruit hydrolat can also be used as a fragrance [6][37].Table 12.
Uses of
I. verum
in cosmetics according to CosIng database.
| Form | Function |
|---|
| Illicium verum fruit extract | Perfuming, skin conditioning |
| Illicium verum fruit water | Fragrance, perfuming |
| Illicium verum fruit powder | Exfoliating |
| Illicium verum fruit oil | Perfuming |
| Illicium verum seed oil | Fragrance, oral care, tonic |
| Illicium verum leaf oil | Flavoring, fragrance, skin conditioning |
Table 23.
I. verum
as a cosmetic ingredient.
| Manufacturer | Country | Trade Name | Form | Form of | I. verum | in a Composition of the Cosmetic (INCI) According to the Manufacturer | Function |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| MUGLER | www.mugler.com | France | Cuir Impertinent | Perfumed water | Star Anise—top note | Perfuming | |
| Tonymoly | www.tonymoly.us | Korea | I’M POMEGRANATE Mask Sheet | Mask sheet | Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract | Moisturizing, elasticizing | |
| I’M REAL Makgeolli Mask Sheet | Mask sheet | Illicium verum (Anise) Extract | Smoothing, moisturizing | ||||
| I’M AVOCADO Nutrition Beauty Mask Sheet | Mask sheet | Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract | Nourishing, revitalizing | ||||
| I’M RED WINE Pore Care Beauty Mask Sheet | Mask sheet | Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract | Cleansing, tightening | ||||
| Elizavecca | www.elizavecca.com | Korea | Pore Clean Up AHA Fruit Toner | Cleansing toner | Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract | Exfoliating, cleansing, moisturizing | |
| Gold CF-NEST Collagen Jella Pack Beauty Mask | Face mask | Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract | Elasticizing, firming, exfoliating | ||||
| Gold CF-NEST, White Bomb Eye Cream | Eye cream | Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract | Brightening, smoothing | ||||
| Skin Liar Primer | Face primer | Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract | Brightening, smoothing | ||||
| Perfect Sparking Peeling Pad | Peeling pad | Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract | Cleansing, exfoliating | ||||
| Klairs | www.klairscosmetics.com | Korea | Rich Moist Soothing Serum | Serum | Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract | Moisturizing, soothing | |
| Freshly Juiced Vitamin Drop Serum | Serum | Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract | Brightening, smoothing, improving the skin condition | ||||
| Rich Moist Foaming Cleanser | Foaming cleanser | Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract | Moisturizing, soothing, refreshing, cleansing | ||||
| Supple Preparation All Over Lotion | Lotion | Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract | Moisturizing, protective, soothing | ||||
| Son & Park | www.en.sonandpark.com | Korea | Beauty Water | Cleansing water/ toner | Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit/Seed Oil | Moisturizing, refreshing, exfoliating, cleansing | |
| COSRX | www.cosrx.com | Korea | Low pH Barrier Mist | Face mist | Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract | Moisturizing, refreshing, elasticizing, restoring pH balance | |
| D’Alba | www.dalbaglobal.com | Korea | White Truffle Whitening | Cream | Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract | Brightening, protective, elasticizing | |
| Missha | www.missha.com | Korea | Real Solution Tencel Sheet Mask | Sheet mask | Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract | Moisturizing, soothing, strengthening the skin natural barrier | |
| Aromatica | www.thearomatica.com | Korea | Rosemary Scalp Scaling Shampoo | Shampoo | Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract | Nourishing, exfoliating | |
| Doctor Babor | www.babor.com | Germany | 3D Hydro Gel Face Mask | Face mask | Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract | Moisturizing, elasticizing, refreshing, toning | |
| Oceanic | www.oceanic.com.pl | Poland | Facial Sheet Mask Rose + Phytocollagen | Sheet mask | Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract | Regenerating, smoothing, improving the skin condition | |
| Facial Sheet Mask Lemon + Vitamin C | Sheet mask | Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract | Brightening, smoothing, rejuvenating, revitalizing | ||||
| EO Laboratorie | www.ec-l.ru/en | Russia | Smoothness& Tonus Scrub | Scrub | Illicium verum Oil | Elasticizing, moisturizing, softening, exfoliating | |
| PIXI | www.pixibeauty.com | United States | Rose Glow Mist | Mist | Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract | Moisturizing, refreshing, elasticizing, protective against free radicals | |
| Glow Glycolic Boost | Sheet mask | Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract | Brightening, moisturizing | ||||
| Rose Caviar Essense | Flower oil | Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit Extract | Moisturizing, softening, nourishing | ||||
| Eco-Dent | www.eco-dent.com | Unites States | GentleFloss Mint | Dental floss | Illicium verum Oil | Refreshing, anti-cavity | |
| Jason Natural | www.jason-personalcare.com | United States | Powersmile, Antiplaque &Whitening Toothpaste | Toothpaste | Illicium verum (Anise) Fruit/Seed Oil | Whitening, reducing unpleasant odor | |
| Kerosene | www.houseofkerosene.com | Unites States | Black Vines | Perfumed water | Star Anise | Perfuming | |
| Dr Bronner’s | www.drbronner.com | Great Britain | Peppermint Toothpaste | Toothpaste | Organic Illicium verum (Anise) Seed Oil | Whitening, refreshing, reducing plaque | |
| Jo Malone | www.jomalone.com | Great Britain | Vanilla & Anise Cologne | Cologne | Star Anise—top note | Perfuming | |
| DIESEL | www.diesel.com | Italy | Loverdose | Perfumed water | Star Anise—top note | Perfuming | |
| OUDFACTORY | www.oudfactory.com | United Arab Emirates | Moya Kvitka | Perfumed water | Star Anise | Perfuming |
3. Safety of Use
According to the Flavor and Extract Manufacturers Association (FEMA) [7][38], the main component of I. verum essential oil, trans-anethole, is “generally recognized as safe” (GRAS).
A report of the European Medicines Agency (EMA—The European Agency for the Evaluation of Medical Products and Veterinary Medicines and Information Technology Unit) [8][39] stated that I. verum fruit and essential oil can be used as an expectorant or stomachic in humans. In addition, it can be used as a spice and in alcoholic beverages, sweets, or toothpastes. The recommended average daily dose of I. verum fruit for humans is 3 g and that of essential oil is 0.3 g. The same report also indicated that I. verum fruit can be included as a component in veterinary preparations at a concentration of 2.88%, along with other active ingredients. The common uses of preparations containing I. verum in cattle, sheep, and goats are to treat gastric disorders such as forestomach atony or acute indigestion. For cattle weighing more than 200 kg, the appropriate dose of I. verum is 20 g, while for sheep and goats it is 15 g lower [8][39].
Despite its safety, in 2003 the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) issued a warning against the consumption of teas containing I. verum fruit, which was linked with side effects such as vomiting, nausea, convulsions, hypertonia, hypothermia and rapid eye movements. It was also reported that the teas can be contaminated with toxic I. anisatum [9][40].
Nakamura et al. [10][41] reported that the oral administration of veranisatin A, veranisatin B and veranisatin C caused acute toxicity in animal studies.
4. Conclusions
Illicium verum is an important species that was widely used in TCM. Both the fruit and the essential oil are pharmacopoeial raw materials and have been used for many years to treat rheumatism, insomnia, or digestive disorders. The valuable properties of I. verum fruits are attributed to its unique chemical composition with abundant amounts of phenylpropanoids, mono- and sesquiterpenoids.
Numerous scientific studies have shown that I. verum fruit and essential oil exhibit strong biological activities such as antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant effects. Due to these properties, I. verum can be used in the cosmetic industry.
The essential oil of I. verum is a rich source of trans-anethole (over 72%). Trans-anethole (E-anethole) is an isomer of anethole and gives I. verum its characteristic aroma, which favors the application of this species in perfumery and cosmetic industry.
Numerous investigations confirm that I. verum can be effective as an antibacterial or antifungal agent in food manufacturing or medicne. It can be used in the treatment of a dry cough or bronchitis. The anti-inflammatory activity of I. verum enables the potential use of the plant in cases of skin diseases. Due to I. verum having proven expectorant properties, it can also be widely used for the production of antitussives. The pleasant anise-like smell can be used in the production of natural breath fresheners.
Besides medical applications, I. verum can offer a wealth of opportunities for cosmetics applications, which are largely determined by the presence of trans-anethole. According to its antioxidant activities, it can be extensively used not only in perfume production, but also in anti-aging cosmetics. Besides, proven anti-obesity properties make the trans-anethole a potential natural dietary supplement.
