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Dini, I. Nanoscience Delivery Systems Used in Nutricosmetic Sector. Encyclopedia. Available online: https://encyclopedia.pub/entry/20870 (accessed on 04 July 2024).
Dini I. Nanoscience Delivery Systems Used in Nutricosmetic Sector. Encyclopedia. Available at: https://encyclopedia.pub/entry/20870. Accessed July 04, 2024.
Dini, Irene. "Nanoscience Delivery Systems Used in Nutricosmetic Sector" Encyclopedia, https://encyclopedia.pub/entry/20870 (accessed July 04, 2024).
Dini, I. (2022, March 22). Nanoscience Delivery Systems Used in Nutricosmetic Sector. In Encyclopedia. https://encyclopedia.pub/entry/20870
Dini, Irene. "Nanoscience Delivery Systems Used in Nutricosmetic Sector." Encyclopedia. Web. 22 March, 2022.
Nanoscience Delivery Systems Used in Nutricosmetic Sector
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This entry is adapted from the peer-reviewed paper 10.3390/antiox11030563

Nutricosmetics is a new cosmetics sector that uses an integrated “In and Out” approach. Cosmetic products together with food supplements such as micronutrients (minerals, vitamins), macronutrients (peptides, essential fatty acids), and botanicals (herbal and fruit extracts)  are employed to nourish the skin and reduce skin aging.  Biopolymeric nanoparticles, nanofibers, nanoemulsions, nanocapsules, and colloids are delivery systems applied to improve the bioactive components’ performance in food supplements and cosmetics. The toxicity of nano-sized delivery systems is unclear despite food supplements and cosmetic industries using them. 

nanotechnology nutraceutic nutricosmetic nanoceutic phytochemical delivery nanoemulsion polymeric nanoparticles edible nanocoating nanocosmeceuticals

1. Introduction

Nutricosmetics is a new sector of cosmetics that aims to optimize the use of cosmetic products and food supplements such as micronutrients (minerals, vitamins), macronutrients (peptides, essential fatty acids), and botanicals (herbal and fruit extracts) to nourish the skin and reduce skin aging through an integrated “In and Out” approach [1][2][3][4][5]. By 2030, the world’s population over 60 years will grow to 1.4 billion [6], so it is reasonable to assume that the number of people who will buy cosmetics in hopes of maintaining a youthful appearance will grow in the coming years. In this scenario, nutricosmetic products should find a large market as they are natural products, improve health, and are considered free of side effects. The skin is the first line of defense between our body and the world [7]. It maintains the balance of liquids by binding water, preventing its loss, and promoting perspiration. The skin is subjected to multiple stressors that lead to premature skin aging. Free radicals produced by air pollution, cold, and UV rays induce inflammatory processes and accelerate skin aging by altering our body’s DNA, lipids, and proteins [8]. Sportswear can produce dryness and irritable skin, increasing friction. Frequent showers and detergents modify the hydrolipidic film and the ability to regulate liquids and the skin’s elasticity. The nutricosmetic approach repairs the skin barrier [9], improves skin hydration, fights inflammation, and protects the skin from damage caused by the sun’s rays, combining food supplements that intervene from the inside with cosmetic products for topical use, which interfere from the outside [10].

2. Nanocosmetics and Nanonutraceuticals Delivery Systems

Nanochemicals are formulations containing nanotechnology as delivery systems to improve the bioactive components’ performance [11][12][13]. REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation, and Restriction of Chemicals) regulates the exposure and hazards of nanochemicals [14].
Nanocosmetics is the cosmetic field where nanomaterials/nanoparticles are used to develop cosmetic products. The international guidelines (EC Regulation 1223/2009) that guarantee the protection and safety of cosmetic products defined nanomaterials as only the “material insoluble or bio-persistent (e.g., metal oxides, metals, etc.) and intentionally manufactured with one or more external dimensions, or an internal structure, on the scale from 1 to 100 nm”, excluding materials that are soluble, degradable, and/or non-persistent in biological systems (e.g., liposomes, plant-derived vesicles, emulsions, etc.) [15].
Nanonutraceuticals are nanotechnology delivery systems used to improve the performance of bioactive components in foods, including food supplements. An edible delivery system must be realized with GRAS (Generally Recognized as Safe) ingredients by using processing operations that conform to good manufacturing practices. It must have a high loading capacity, encapsulation efficiency, and retention efficiency. It must have the capacity to protect chemically labile encapsulated compounds from chemical degradation (e.g., oxidative degradation) [16]. It must be compatible with the food or beverage matrix that it will be incorporated into, without causing any adverse effects on product appearance, texture, mouthfeel, flavor, or shelf-life [17]. It must be resistant to environmental stresses during production, storage, transport, and utilization (e.g., thermal processing, light exposure, mechanical agitation, chilling, freezing, or dehydration) [17]. It must be designed to control the release and/or absorption of the bioactive lipophilic component of a particular site within the gastrointestinal tract, such as the mouth, stomach, small intestine, or large intestine [17].
In the nutricosmetic field, nanotechnology is used to prepare sunscreens, barrier creams, antiacne, moisturizers, antiaging, antioxidants, hair, nails, lip, and skin cosmetics. The industry has created many nanoscale delivery systems that transport each bioactive based on its nature (lipophilic and hydrophilic) and chemical–physical properties. Nanostructures may have one-dimension, two-dimensions (e.g., nanotubes), or three dimensions (nanoparticles) at the nanometer level [18]. Nanostructures that protect and deliver lipophilic compounds include simple oil in water (O/W) emulsions, water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) double emulsions, capsules, liposomes, and colloidosomes. The systems able to protect and deliver hydrophilic bioactive components are gelled networks (hydrogels), gel particles/fluid gels (gelled nanoparticulates), water in oil emulsions (W/O), and protein–polysaccharide structures (self-assembled structures).

3. The Use of Antioxidants in Nutricosmetic Products

Nutricosmetics is an umbrella term for food supplements with aesthetic benefits beyond their primary nutritional value. They are considered nonpharmaceutical and nonmedicinal products, although they are sold in capsules, tablets, syrups, gels, solutions, and extracts. Nutricosmetic supplements can contain nutrients and secondary plant metabolites (also known as phytochemicals or botanicals) [19][20]. Phytochemicals are non-nutritive plant chemicals with protective or disease preventive properties such as antioxidant activity, antimicrobial effects, hormone metabolism modulation, immune system stimulation, and anti-aggregate action. They are considered non-essential nutrients since the human body does not require them for sustaining life. The great changeability of phytochemical compounds determines a significant variation in their physicochemical properties (e.g., solubility in water or oil medium) [21]. The health effects depend on absorption, distribution, metabolism, and excretion. The absorption depends on the dose, the matrix in which they are ingested, and the presence of compounds able to bind or solubilize phytochemicals, reducing their bioactivity or product stability. Some phytochemicals are present in plant foods, such as glycosides or other conjugates, and must be hydrolyzed to be absorbed. Their metabolism may be affected by environmental exposures, stability, activity, gut microbials, and variations in levels of endogenous compounds that modulate biotransformation pathways [22][23]. In particular, among phytochemicals, antioxidant compounds such as vitamins (i.e., E, A, and C), tocopherols, carotenoids, methylxanthines (theophylline, caffeine, and theobromine), and phenols have been shown to improve our aesthetic wellbeing, making anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, photoprotective, antiaging, antiviral, and antibacterial effects [10][24][25]. The combination of topical application cosmetics and oral intake products enhances the results [26]. Both synthetic and natural molecules are employed in nutricosmetic products [27]. Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), butylated hydroxyl anisole (BHA), and propyl gallate are examples of synthetic antioxidants. Some synthetic antioxidants are obtained from natural ones. Polyphenols, mineral antioxidants (i.e., selenium, iron, copper, manganese, and zinc), vitamins, and phyto-antioxidants are natural compounds used in cosmetic products. Synthetic and natural antioxidants can be used together to produce synergistic stabilization effects [28]. Antioxidants can be grouped into non-enzymatic and enzymatic compounds [29]. Generally, their levels depend on the types of skin cells. For example, melanocytes do not contain enzymatic antioxidants [30]. The biopharmaceutical classification of antioxidants is based on their permeability and solubility. Four classes of antioxidants are estimated: high solubility–high permeability (i.e., vitamin C, are located in cellular fluids); low solubility–low permeability; low solubility–high permeability; and high solubility–low permeability (i.e., vitamin E, are present in cell membranes) [31]. The administration of antioxidant compounds involves overcoming different obstacles depending on whether they are administered for oral or topical use. The biological activity of the antioxidants administered orally is negatively influenced by the low solubility in the gastrointestinal fluids and aqueous media, instability at physiological pH, and degradation due to enzymes and light. Efficient delivery systems which can enhance their bioavailability are micelles, nanoemulsions, nanoparticles, nanocochleates, nanocapsules, nanocrystals, etc.
In cases where they are used in preparations for topical use, the main problems are instability, low permeability, and water-solubility. The instability is due to environmental stress (i.e., air, light, moisture, heat, oxygen, metal ions, and alkalinity) and determines the shelf life of the products [28]. The low permeability and water-solubility negatively affect their ability to enter into more profound layers of the skin and arrive at the target tissue [32]. For example, the use of resveratrol is limited in cosmetic formulations due to instability [33]. The microencapsulation techniques [34] and some biodegradable polymer-based delivery systems such as liposomes, solid lipid nanoparticles, nanostructured lipid carriers, and emulsions are employed to improve the antioxidants’ bioactivity in cosmetic products [35].

4. Nanodelivery System Toxicity

The nanodelivery systems’ different particle sizes, surface groups, zeta potentials, and aggregation states can determine different bioavailability and toxic reactions than conventional ones [36]. The smaller size of nanomaterials allows them easier access into cells, tissues, and organs, decreasing the influence of intestinal clearance mechanisms and protracting their stay in the gastrointestinal tract [37]. Therefore, the tolerable upper intake levels (UL) and recommended daily allowance (RDA) of nutrients need reevaluation [38]. Furthermore, the nanoparticles interact with various immune system components, breaking up immunostimulation or immunosuppression, promoting inflammation and autoimmune disorders, or increasing the host’s susceptibility to infections. They can interact with the innate and adaptive immune systems [39]. The innate immune system is our first line of defense against invading organisms and can immediately respond to any stress. It consists of cells (e.g., physical epithelial barriers, phagocytic leukocytes, dendritic cells, natural killer cells) and proteins (e.g., circulating plasma proteins) that are always present and ready to mobilize and fight microbes at the site of infection. The innate immune system is nonspecific and has no memory. The adaptive immune system acts as a second line of defense and can respond efficiently to re-exposure to the same pathogen. The components of the adaptive immune system are generally silent; however, when activated, these components “adapt” to the presence of infectious agents by activating, proliferating, and creating potent mechanisms for neutralizing or eliminating the microbes. There are two adaptive immune responses: humoral immunity, mediated by antibodies produced by B lymphocytes, and cell-mediated immunity, mediated by T lymphocytes. The nanoparticles can elicit an immune response by directly immunostimulating antigen-presenting cells or delivering antigen to specific cellular compartments. Their compatibility with the immune system depends on size, surface charge, hydrophobicity/hydrophilicity, and steric effects of the particle coating. Predicting nanoparticles’ innate responses (in vitro or in vivo) is still challenging [10]. Some nanomaterials induce a (pro)inflammatory response and are taken up by phagocytic cells, whereas others seem to reduce these activities, reducing the ability of these immune cells to fight (e.g., bacteria).
Moreover, nanomaterials can affect the adaptive immune response, disrupting the Th1/Th2 balance, influencing cytokine production in peripheral blood mononuclear cells, and overproducing TNF-α (tumor necrosis factor) and INFγ interferon, decreasing levels of IL-10 (interleukin) and IL-2. It is possible to show an overt immune response when nanoparticles are designed with poly(ethylene glycol) (PEG) or other types of polymers to provide a hydrophilic environment [40][41]. The silver, titanium dioxide, zinc, and zinc oxide nanoparticles are highly toxic, since their high surface area increases the contact with biomolecules and triggers adverse responses. Cationic charge determines a high affinity towards the negatively charged plasma membrane, which determines retention of one Cl− ion and one water molecule per proton and consequent lysosomal swelling and rupture [42]. The toxicity of nanoceuticals was studied mainly in animal experiments. More human and clinical trials should be carried out to know the potential positive and negative effects of nanoceutics and/or nanocosmetics on human health [43].

References

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Subjects: Chemistry, Applied
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Irene Dini
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