Aroma of Sherry Products: History
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Jerez (Sherry) is a well-known wine-producing region located in southern Spain, where world-renowned oenological products such as wines, vinegars, and brandies are produced. There are several factors that provide characteristic physical, chemical, and sensory properties to the oenological products obtained in this Sherry region: the climate in the area with hot summers, mild winters, and with limited rainfall; the raw material used consisting on Palomino Fino, Moscatel, and Pedro Ximénez white grape varieties; the special vinification with fortified wines; and aging techniques such as a dynamic system of biological or oxidative aging.

  • Sherry
  • wine
  • vinegar
  • brandy
  • aroma

1. Introduction

The winemaking tradition in the agricultural areas within the Jerez (Sherry) region dates far back in time. This is an eminent wine-producing region located in the south of Spain, surrounded by mountains and coastal lands that condition the climate in the area, which together with its particular aging methods, are determinant to attain the highly desirable organoleptic characteristics of its oenological products [1]. Worldwide renowned oenological products such as wines, vinegars, and brandies are the result of this unique combination of factors.

Sherry wines are considered among the most highly appreciated products in the world of oenology [2]. Diversity is undoubtedly one of the distinctive features of Sherry’s identity, where just three grape varieties (Palomino, Moscatel, and Pedro Ximénez) give rise to different wines that clearly differ in terms of color, aroma, flavor, and texture depending on their elaboration process. [3].

Those wines that are subjected exclusively to biological aging—i.e., those which are protected from any direct contact with the air by the natural flor velum—retain their initial color, and display a series of distinctive aromatic and gustatory notes derived from the yeasts that form that essential flor velum [4]. On the other hand, other Sherry wines are aged by oxidative or physicochemical means, in direct contact with the oxygen in the air. These gradually acquire a darker hue, and exhibit more complex aromas and flavors [5].

Furthermore, the type of fermentation, which can be either complete or partial allows the production of highly dry wines (fortified wines) or extraordinarily sweet wines (natural sweet wines). By mixing these two types in different proportions, new wines with varying levels of sweetness (liqueur fortified wines) are also obtained [6,7].

With regard to Sherry vinegars, these are obtained from the grapes grown in the local vineyards. The authorized grape varieties for the production of Sherry vinegar are the same that those employed for Sherry wine. The Sherry vinegar production process basically consists in the acetic fermentation of local wines, as a result of the transformation of alcohol in acetic acid by acetic bacteria (Mycoderma aceti) and its subsequent aging in wooden casks. The final product presents a color between old gold and mahogany, with an intense aroma, lightly alcoholic, with notes of wine and wood predominating, and a pleasant taste, despite the acidity, with a long aftertaste [8,9].

On the other hand, Sherry Brandy is the product resulting from the distillation of wines (mainly Airén and Palomino ones) and its subsequent aging to confer the final product its distinctive organoleptic qualities [10].

All these products share in common a singular and dynamic aging process that is characteristic of the Sherry area: ‘Criaderas y Solera’. This aging process uses oak casks, generally American oak (Quercus alba), that may vary between 250 and 600 L volume depending on the product to be obtained. The porosity of the American oak is ideal to allow the contact of the aging product with the oxygen in the air, thus facilitating its oxidation and favoring the aging process. The evolution of all the product physicochemical parameters is largely due to the impact of wood on the aging process. In fact, wood is a definite determinant of the organoleptic properties achieved by all the Sherry oenological products [5,11]. Moreover, the high level of aromatic content of these Sherry products is also influenced by the high level of aromatic composition of the American oak, compared to other types of oaks, such as French oak (Quercus petraea, Quercus robur).

During the aging phase in the winemaking process, the capacity of the wood to release certain compounds is essential and will vary according to the size and age (previous uses) of the cask. Thus, the smaller the cask size, the greater the wood surface in contact with the liquid. In this sense, the use of small barrels is not always convenient, since the effect of the wood on the final product could be greater than desirable [12]. Based on experience, 500–600 L barrels seem to be the most appropriate size for the aging of Sherry products, since they provide the ideal balance between wood surface and content volume.

Another characteristic of these wines is that they are aged in preconditioned casks, i.e., casks that have previously contained sherry wine. They are known as “barricas envinadas” (casks in which Sherry wine has been aged). This significantly contribute to providing these products with different nuances depending on the type of preconditioning undergone by the casks [13].

The aforementioned ‘Criaderas y Solera’ aging method could be defined as a dynamic aging process, as opposed to the static aging by vintages. In the latter system, the oenological product to be aged remains in the same barrel during the entire aging period, while in the Criaderas y Solera method, however, the oenological product is stored in casks classified into groups, known as ‘scales’, according to the age of the product that they contain. The scale that contains the oldest oenological product is called ‘solera’ and it is located at ground level. This is topped, according to its younger age, by the first criadera, the second, the third and so on (Figure 1). A small amount of the product, which must be the same from each of the casks that make up the solera, is extracted for bottling and distribution. The resulting empty space is replenished with the equivalent volume of the oenological product from the first criadera. The same procedure is applied to the first and second criadera, which are refilled with the product from the corresponding topping criadera. In this way, a uniform product is obtained in terms of flavor, aroma and color. The same organoleptic characteristics are obtained, since the amount of refilling product is rather reduced in comparison with the larger amount of product in the receiving cask. Thus, the small amount of product added to the cask acquires the characteristics of the predominant older product it is mixed with [14,15].

Figure 1. Criaderas y Solera aging method.

Because of this peculiar aging process, it is quite difficult to estimate the exact age of the oenological product, so it is usually referred to as average age. This parameter is defined as the ratio between the total volume of product in the system and the annual volume that is taken out for its commercialization. Depending on their average age, they will be classified into different categories, which will exhibit different characteristics, depending on the original oenological matrix that was used (wine, vinegar, or Brandy).

All the aforementioned features in the elaboration of Sherry products provide them with their own qualities that will constitute their seal of quality. Thus, such characteristics like polyphenolic compounds content [10,16–18], chromatic attributes [17,19,20], organic acids [13,17], or sugars contents [14] have been suggested to be determinant parameters regarding the ultimate quality of Sherry wine, vinegar, or brandy.

The aroma of oenological products, in general, represents an important determinant of their quality, and there are numerous studies that support this point [21–24]. Although not all volatile compounds contribute to aroma perception [25], the study of aromatic profile is still of major importance, since the acceptance of the final product by the consumer depends on them to a great extent [26]. Consequently, in recent years, significant technological advances have been made in terms of extraction methods and the subsequent analysis of these compounds [27,28]. In parallel, sensory analysis has been consolidated as an essential tool to perform a complete investigation that covers all the aspects related to aroma. An increasing number of studies propose sensory analysis as a crucial tool to determine the quality of the final product [29]. Moreover, a recent study by Cruces-Montes et al. [30] presented the perception of the attributes of Sherry wine and its consumption in young people in the south of Spain. Their results showed that the consumption of Sherry wine was recognized to different dimensions, and flavor was especially important for some types of Sherry wine.

Figure 2 shows the growing progression in the number of studies that address the subject of aroma in the typical products from Jerez (Sherry) area: wine, vinegar, and brandy. This rising number of studies and publications is explained by the importance of the content of volatile compounds regarding the aroma of wine products, as well as by the socioeconomic relevance of these products in the region. Also, the evolution of analytical technologies and their innovations contribute for the increment of this kind of studies. On these bases, we have considered the importance of a literature review that would cover the most prominent aspects associated to this tandem: aroma and Sherry oenological products

Figure 2. Number of publications addressing the aroma of Sherry oenological products. Source: Scopus.

 

You can access to the complete review in the following link:

https://www.mdpi.com/2304-8158/10/4/753/htm

 

This entry is adapted from the peer-reviewed paper 10.3390/foods10040753

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