Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a polysaccharide belonging to the glycosaminoglycans, made up of disaccharide units constituted of N-acetylglucosamine and D-glucuronic acid.
Cosmetic Product Category/Proposed Use | Producer (Country of Origin)/Cosmetic Product Trade Name | HA Form | Other Active Ingredients Incorporated in the Cosmetic Formulation (INCI—International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients Denomination) | Cosmetic Claim | Market Segment | Reference | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Skin care cosmetics | FRESH (USA) Deep Hydration Face Serum Serum |
291][292][ | NaHA | Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Pyrus Cydonia Seed Extract, Angelica Keiskei Extract, Voandzeia Subterra Nea Seed Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate | 24-h moisture | 293 | Premium Market | [52] |
] | [294] | no side effects [288][294] | ||||||
Bifida Ferment Lysate | improves the skin’s epidermal renewal process [295] diminishes clinical signs and symptoms of atopic eczema [296][297][298] regulates skin reactivity and dryness [299] |
non-sensitizing [300] | ||||||
fatty acids (palmitic, linoleic, myristic), essential oil, triterpenic alcohols, sugars, phytosterols, phenol acids, tannins, choline, inulin, flavonoids, carotenoids, coumarins, sesquiterpene lactones | ||||||||
[ | ||||||||
113 | ||||||||
] | [114] | anti-inflammatory effect [102][115] reduces the ecchymosis and oedema [102] |
contact dermatitis [113][116] rarely ocular irritation [114] |
|||||
Artemia salina | diguanosine-tetraphosphate, D-myo-inosite-1,4,5-triphosphate, proteins, glucan [117] | stimulates skin regeneration, strengthens the immune system of the skin, sustains epidermal cell proliferation, anti-ageing (inhibiting the cells senescence, stimulating the collagen expression) and photo-protection effect [117] | * N | |||||
Bambusa arundinacea | flavonoids, phenolic compounds, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, ferulic acid, 8-C-glucosyl apigenin, luteolin derivatives [118] | antioxidant capacity, anti-ageing, photo-protection, skin pigmentation modulating effect, anti-allergic effect (inhibiting the production of IgE and lymphocytes) [118] | * N | |||||
Calendula officinalis | triterpenes, polyphenolic compounds, polysaccharides, vitamin C, tocopherols, quinones, carotenoids saponins, sterols [119][120][121][122] | anti-inflammatory effect [119][123] cell rejuvenation effect [123][124] skin smoothing and softening effect [123] prevents skin alteration and early ageing (improving the skin elasticity) [120][124][125] anti-irritant, anti-psoriatic and callus treating [102] stimulates the regeneration and epithelisation of wounded skin [119][123][124][125] antioxidant capacity [119][120][123][124] antimicrobial activity [99] | ||||||
NaHA | ||||||||
N | ||||||||
moisturizing | ||||||||
Premium Market | ||||||||
[ | ||||||||
76 | ||||||||
] | ||||||||
PAUL& JOE (Japan) | ||||||||
Pore SmoothingPrimer Face primer |
Hydrolyzed HA | Calendula Officianlis Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Tocopherol | moisturizing | Premium Market | [77] |
Active Ingredient/Plant Species | Bioactive Components | Biological Role and Benefits for Skin | Toxicity of Topical Products | |||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Acer saccharum | phenolic compounds (maplexins, ginnalins) [78][79] | increases the intracellular ceramide level stimulates the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes maintains thehomeostasis of the epidermis antioxidant capacity [78][80][81] |
* N | |||||||
DECIEM (Canada) The ORDINARY “Buffet” Multi-Technology Peptide Serum Serum |
NaHA | Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Pentapeptide-18, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl BenzylamideDiacetate, Acetylarginyltryptophyl Diphenylglycine, Allantoin, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Valine, Isoleucine, | ||||||||
Ahnfeltia concinna (red algae) |
polysaccharides (carrageenan, agar), amino acids, minerals, vitamins, trace elements [82] | Proline, Threonine, Histidine, Phenylalanin, Arginine, Aspartic, Acid, Trehalose, Fructose, Glucose, Maltose, Urea, Sodium PCA, PCA, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin |
anti-ageing | [ | Premium Market | 83][84] | antioxidant capacity, anti-wrinkle, skin-whitening (suppresses the melanin production), skin moisturizing [83][84][85][86][53] | |||
not toxic in topical applications | possible irritation, sensitization, or photoreactions | [86] | DECIEM (Canada) THE ORDINARY Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 Serum |
NaHA | ||||||
Alaria esculenta (brown algae) |
polyphenols, diterpenoids, fatty acids, polysaccharides, fucosterol, fucoxhantin (e.g., retinoic acid), amino acids, minerals, vitamins, trace elements | Panthenol, Ahnfeltia Concinna Extract | [87][88][89] | moisturizing, anti-ageing |
Premium Market | |||||
Lactococcus Ferment Lysate | stimulates the skin’s self-renewal [301] significant improvement of atopic dermatitis (AD) [298] | hyperpigmentation amelioration increases skin firmness and elasticity stimulates collagen and keratin synthesis, reducing the progerin production (increased in aged skin) of ‘aged’ fibroblasts skin-whitening, antioxidant capacity [86][87][90][91] anti-cellulite and antiedema activity [86][92][93][94] |
non-irritant, no allergenic potential [possible local irritation, sensitization, or photoreactions [86 | [ | 54] | |||||
] | 302 | ] | APIVITA (Greece) 5-action Eye Serum Advanced eye care Serum |
Hydrolyzed HA | Lilium Candidum Extract, PfaffiaPaniculata Extract, PtychopetalumOlacoides Extract, CopperLysinate/Prolinate, Propolis Extract, Mel Extract, Methylglucoside Phosphate, Euphrasia Officinalis Extract, Lecithin, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Panthenol, SideritisPerfoliata Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Extract, SideritisScardica Extract, SideritisRaeseri Extract, Bisabolol | anti-ageing, moisturizing | ||||
Aloe sp. | Premium Market | (Aloe barbadensis) | antraquinones, polysaccharides, phenolic compounds, organic acids [95][96][97][98] | antimicrobial activity [99][100] antioxidant capacity, anti-inflammatory, anti-pyrotic [100][101][102] improves skin moisture and water retention in the SC [97][100][ | [55] | |||||
101 | ] | [103][104] | phototoxicity, eczema, contact dermatitis [95][96] | FARMEC (Romania) Hyaluronic Acid ampoules 5% Serum |
NaHA | Superoxide Dismutase, Lecithin | anti-wrinkle, intensive moisturizing |
Mass Market | [56] | |
Amaranthus caudatus | amino-acids, proteins, amylopectin, minerals, vitamins (vitamin A, E, K), fibers, essential fatty acids, triterpenes (squalene) [105][106] | antioxidant capacity, moisturizing, skin hydration, suppressing the pigmentation [106][107][108] | * N | AVIVA COSMETICS (Romania) INFINITUM Deep Wrinkles Anti-Ageing Serum |
Hydrolyzed HA | |||||
Angelica keiskei | coumarins, terpens, phenolic compounds [109][ | Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract | 110 | firming, anti-ageing | Premium Market | ][111][112][57] | ||||
GARANCIA (France) MYSTÉRIEUX MILLE ET UN JOURS Anti-Ageing Day Emulsion | Hydrolyzed HA | Alaria Esculenta Extract, Cyathea Cumingii Extract, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 | relax expression lines | Premium Market | [58] | |||||
BALANCE ME (UK) Tinted Wonder Eye Cream Eye cream complexion perfection Day Cream |
Hydrolyzed HA | Picea Abies Extract, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Extract, Styrax Benzoin Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Tocopherol | soothing, anti-ageing |
Mass Market | [59] | |||||
EARTH SCIENCE (USA) Apricot | Pyrus Malus Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Extract, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Tocopherol, Citrus Grandis Seed Extract, Calendula Officinalis Extract, Bambusa Arundinacea Extract, Sambucus Nigra Extract, Cucumis Sativus Extract, Arnica Montana Extract, Hedera Helix Extract, Lactic acid, Allantoin | reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles | Mass Market | [ | 60] | |||||
antioxidant capacity, astringent, emollient, skin conditioning and protecting, skin whitening and lightening, sunlight protection | [ | 109] | * N | Intensive night cream |
COSMETIC PLANT (Romania) | |||||
Arnica montana | Night Cream | NaHA | Lift Up—Hyaluronic Acid Day Anti-Ageing Cream Day Cream |
Hydrolyzed HA | Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Magnolia Liliflora Extract, Tocopherol | [123] | anti-ageing | rare sensitization or allergic contact reactions [113][119] | Mass Market | [126][61] |
AVIVA COSMETICS (Romania) INFINITUM Cellular Regenerating Cream |
Hydrolyzed HA | Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate | ||||||||
Camelia sp. (C. sinensis, C. japonica) |
polyphenols, catechins [120] | antioxidant capacity, reduces the sebum production, improves skin hydration, skin smoothing and softening, photoprotective, and anti-inflammatory effect [120][127][128][129] | firming, regenerating, rejuvenating | [130][131] | contact dermatitis | Premium Market | [116][62] | |||
GEROCOSSEN (Romania) Hyaluron Anti-Age CreamSPF 10 Day Cream |
NaHA | Lecithin, Tocopheryl acetate, Retinyl palmitate | anti-ageing | |||||||
Chamomila recutita | polysaccharides, flavonoids (α-bisabolol, apigenin), sesquiterpene lactones [ | Mass Market | 113][120] | anti-inflammatory effect, antioxidant capacity [132] repairs the SC, wound healing, anti-ageing activity skin smoothing and softening, also being used in the treatment of eczema [120][132][133] |
skin sensitization, contact dermatitis [113][133][134[63] | |||||
] | AVIVA COSMETICS (Romania) INFINITUM Golden Elixir Anti-Ageing Cream SPF 15 Day Cream |
Hydrolyzed HA | Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract, Gold (CI 777480), Ectoin | |||||||
Centella asiatica | saponins, flavonoids (quercetin, kaempferol, apigenil, naringenin, phenolic acids (chlorogenic acid), triterpenic steroids, amino acids, sugars [135][136] | antioxidant capacity, anti-inflammatory, anti-ageing effect stimulates the fibroblast proliferation, increasing the collagen synthesis | firming, anti-ageing, SPF 15 |
Premium Market | [64] | |||||
increases the | SC | hydration and the epidermal barrier function anti-cellulite effect [135][136] |
local allergic reactions, burning, eczemas, vesicles, pruritus [136] | FARMEC (Romania) Anti-Wrinkle Cream Concentrated with Hyaluronic Acid 3% Day Cream |
NaHA | Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, Tripeptide-1, Lecithin, Artemia Salina Extract, Superoxide Dismutase | anti-wrinkle, line filling and smoothing, intense hydration | Mass Market | [65] | |
Ceratonia siliqua | flavonoids, phytosterols, acids, esters, terpenoids, fenolic compounds [137][138][139] | anti-cellulite effect (increasing the aquaglyceroporines activity, stimulating lipolysis, reducing the localized fat overload), antioxidant capacity, depigmentation effect (anti-tyrosinase activity), skin lightening effect [137][138][140] | non-irritation potential [137] | ARBONNE RE9 (USA) Advanced For Men Anti-Aging Moisturizer Broad Spectrum Men Care |
||||||
Citrus sp. | NaHA | (C. aurantium dulcis, C. grandis, C. limon, C. unshiu peel) |
bergapten, bergamotin, isopimpinellin, coumarins, psoralenes, angelical, volatile oil (limonene, linalool, linalyl acetate, terpineol, terpinene, terpinolene, ocimene, pinene etc.) [141][Aloe Barbadensis Gel, Ceratonia Siliqua Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Malachite Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Extract, Sophora Japonica Flower Extract, Tripleurospermum Maritimum Extract | 142 | moisturizing, SPF 15 | Premium Market | ][143] | antioxidant capacity, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and anti-verrucous effect, used in acne treatment, wound healing properties, used as fragrance [102][141][142][143] | possible irritation, skin sensitization, hyperpigmentation, redness, oedema, photo-toxicity [141][142][143][144][66] | |
AVIVA COSMETICS (Romania) INFINITUM Anti-Ageing Cleansing Emulsion |
Hydrolyzed HA | Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract | firming, anti-ageing |
Premium Market | ||||||
Cucumis sativus | flavonoids, saponins, sterols, carbohydrates, triterpenes, vitamins (C, B), fatty acid, proteins [145][146] | used in the treatment of periorbital edema, soothing emollient, anti-wrinkle, anti-ageing, anti-itching effects depigmentant and antioxidant capacity, anti-hyaluronidase and anti-elastase actions [145] | erythema after semi occlusive patch testing and conjunctival hyperemia/ocular irritation after a using of an eye lotion containing 1% C. sativus (cucumber) fruit extract [146] | [ | 67] | |||||
JONZAC (France) Bébé Bio Dermo-Repair Cream Baby Care |
Hydrolyzed HA | Malva Sylvestris Extract, Tocopherol, Hydrogenated Lecithin | soothing, regenerating, protecting | Mass Market | ||||||
Cydonia oblonga seed | cellulose, polysaccharides, polyphenols [147][148] | stimulates fibroblasts proliferation, wound, and burns healing maintains skin barrier function anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic and protective effects antioxidant capacity [147][148][149][150][151][ | [ | 68 | ] | |||||
152 | ] | * N | Body cosmetics | LES MERVEILLEUSES LADUREE (France) Sun Protection Body Cream | ||||||
Eclipta prostrata | Body Cream | flavonoids (luteolin, apigenin), wedelolactone, terpenoids, sterols, alkaloids, volatile oils [153][154] | NaHA | [155][156][157Rosa Centifolia Extract, Rosa Damascena Extract | ] | depigmentant effect (anti-tyrosinase activity) hair revitalizing, dye in cosmetic products antioxidant and photoprotective capacity [153][154][155][156 | hydrating, SPF 50 |
Premium Market | [69] | |
] | * N | NATURE REPUBLIC (South Korea) Ice Sun, Ice Puff Sun Sun/Sunbed Exposure |
NaHA | Calendula Officinalis Extract | anti-wrinkle and skin bleftening, SPF 50 | Mass Market | ||||
Euphrasia officinalis | iridoids, flavonoids, polyphenols, saponins, alkaloids, tannins, etheric oils [158][159] | anti-inflammatory and astringent effect antioxidant capacity photo-protection, protective effect against photo-ageing, stimulates collagen synthesis [158][160][161 | [ | 70 | ] | |||||
] | * N | |||||||||
[ | ||||||||||
251 | ||||||||||
] | ||||||||||
[ | ||||||||||
252 | ] | antioxidant capacity, reduces tyrosinase activity antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, anti-psoriatic, photoprotective effects [250][251][252][253][254][255][256] | * N | |||||||
Sideritis sp. (S. perfoliata, S. raeseri) |
terpenes, phenolic compounds (flavonoids, phenylpropanid glycosides), tannins [257][258][259][260 |
Active Ingredient | Cosmetic Claim and Skin Benefits | Toxicity of Topical Products | ||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Probiotics | prevention and improvement of skin conditions (e.g., external signs of ageing, acne, rosacea, yeast and bacterial infections, psoriasis, dermatitis) [288][ | |||||||||
] | ||||||||||
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract | reduces skin shininess, pores, spots, and sebum [303][304] | non-sensitizing, non-irritating [305] | ||||||||
Amino acids, Peptides, Proteins |
common ingredients in cosmetics, as they function as natural moisturizing factors which act as water-binding molecules stimulating collagen and elastin synthesis in skin and improving surface healing anti-ageing effect, increase hydration of the skin which helps to reduce wrinkles and improves the functions of the skin barrier [306] |
safe in cosmetics [306] | ||||||||
Alanine | natural moisturizing factor which acts as a water binding molecule [306] | safe for cosmetic use no dermal irritation or sensitization [307] |
||||||||
Arginine | moisturizing effect increases skin hydration and alleviates the condition of skin dryness [308] |
no dermal irritation or sensitization [307] | ||||||||
Isoleucine | an essential amino acid known for its ability to support tissue repair effective in the treatment of mild to moderate chronic lesion of atopic eczema of the face [309] |
safe for cosmetic use [307] | ||||||||
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 | cosmetic application for wrinkles, working by relaxing of superficial dermal muscles [310] decreases hyperkinetic facial lines or expression wrinkles, effective in reducing skin roughness [311] neurotransmitter inhibitor peptide, used in anti-wrinkle formulations applied to the periorbital area [312] |
well tolerated, with lack of burning and discomfort to the patient safe for topical application [313] |
||||||||
Acetylarginyltryptophyl Diphenylglycine | enhances skin elasticity and tightness, increases type I collagen synthesis [314] |
* N | ||||||||
[ | ||||||||||
261 | ||||||||||
] | ||||||||||
antioxidant capacity, anti-elastase, anti-melanin and anti-tyrosinase activity (anti-wrinkle and depigmentation effect) | ||||||||||
anti-inflammatory and antibacterial capacity | ||||||||||
photo-protection effect | ||||||||||
[ | ||||||||||
257 | ||||||||||
] | ||||||||||
[ | ||||||||||
258 | ||||||||||
] | ||||||||||
[ | ||||||||||
260 | ||||||||||
] | ||||||||||
[ | ||||||||||
261 | ||||||||||
] | ||||||||||
* N | ||||||||||
Sophora japonica | ||||||||||
flavonoids (rutin, quercetin etc.), tripterpenoids, alkaloids, saponins, polysaccharides | ||||||||||
[ | ||||||||||
Pentapeptide-18 | neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptide that decreases neuronal activity and catecholamine release, giving it Botox-like effects in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, and improving skin firmness [315] | safe for cosmetic use [316] | ||||||||
Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate | a small tripetide with anti-ageing and mattifying effect, stimulates PLOD 3 (procollagen-lysine, oxoglutarate 5-dioxygenase 3), enzyme which is known to be of importance for the intermolecular collagen crosslink stability, increasing the stability of collagen, especially in mature skin [317] |
* N | ||||||||
Palmitoyl Tripeptide | improvement of facial wrinkles, elasticity, dermal density and skin tone [318] | safe in cosmetic products [319] | ||||||||
Vitamins | useful role in the treatment of skin ageing and protection of human skin against UV induced ageing [320] | |||||||||
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate | antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, increases skin hydration and smoothness [321] |
contact dermatitis [322][323] | ||||||||
Niacinamide | antipruritic, antimicrobial, vasoactive, photoprotective, sebostatic capacity, lightening effect depending on its concentration [324] |
safe for cosmetic use [325] | ||||||||
Panthenol | hydrating and softening potential, significantly accelerating epidermal regeneration [326] |
allergic contact dermatitis [327][328] | ||||||||
Retinoids | antioxidant capacity, anti-wrinkle, depigmentation, anti-roughness, keratolytic effects, improve skin texture and laxity, protective effect against photo-ageing [329][330] | photosensitization, irritation, erythema, dermatitis, pruritus, burning sensation [330] | ||||||||
Tocopherol Tocotrienols |
antioxidant capacity, anti-wrinkle effect, improving skin moisture [101][329][331] | erythema, oedema, local irritation [331] | DM ALVERDE NATURKOSMETIK (Germany) Ivital + Hand cream |
NaHA | Amaranthus Caudatus Extract, Triticum Aestivum Germ Extract, Punica Granatum Extract, Tocopherol | |||||
Ficus carica | phytosterols, anthocyanins, amino acids, atty acids, phenolic acids, flavonoids, volatile components [162][163] | antioxidant capacity, anti-warts and anti-verrucous activity used in the treatment of dry skin, eczema, acne anti-inflammatory, anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle and skin protection effects [102][162][163 | smoothes lines and wrinkles | ] | ||||||
Saccharides | Mass Market | [ | 71 | ] | ||||||
[ | 164 | ] | no side effects observed [ | 164] | INNISFREE (South Korea) My Body Tangerine Blossom Body lotion |
Hydrolyzed HA | Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Algae Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Orhid Extract, Camelia Sinensis Extract, Camelia Japonica Extract, Opuntia Coccinellifera Extract, Tocopherys Acetate | |||
Glycyrrhiza glabra | saponins (glycyrrhizin), flavonoids (liquiritigenin, liquiritin), glycosides, isoflavons (glabridin, coumarins, stilbenoids) [165][166 | moisturizing | ] | anti-inflammatory effect, antioxidant capacity, photo-protection effect reduces erythema and hyperpigmentation improves epidermal hydration and transepidermal water loss antibacterial and antifungal effect anti-dandruff effect [165 | ||||||
Trehalose | moisture retaining agent in several cosmetic creams and lotions [332][ | ][166][ | Mass Market | 167][ | [72] | |||||
168 | ] | 333] | eye sensitivity (burning, itch, redness), scalp pruritus (itch, dandruff) [ | safe for use in cosmetic products [332165] | ] | INNISFREE (South Korea) Wine Peeling Jelly Scrub Peeling Scrub |
||||
Bee products (Honey, Propolis) | NaHA | Vitis ViniferaExtract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Amaranthus Caudatus Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica Extract, Citrus Unshiu Extract, Orchis Extract, Camelia Sinensis Extract, Camelia Japonica Extract, Opuntia Coccinellifera Extract, Niacinamide, Allantoin, Ceramide 3 | moisturizing | Mass Market | ||||||
Glycine max | phenolic acids (ferulic, syringic, sinapic, flavonoids (isoflavons), soy proteins (β-conglycinin, glycinin), lipids, vitamin E [169][170][171] | anti-inflammatory effect, antioxidant capacity skin lightening and depigmentant protective effect against photo-ageing stimulates collagen and elastin synthesis, increasing the hyaluronic acid levels in aged skin skin regeneration effect, providing nutrients for cell renewal [169][170][171][172][173][174] | [ | 73 | ] | |||||
[ | 175 | ] | none allergic reactions to human skin toxicity evaluation [170][176] itching eczema after several months of exposure to a soy-based ingredients in cosmetic lotions [177] |
TUDE HOUSE (South Korea) Berry AHA! Bleft Peel Bubble Wash |
Hydrolyzed HA | Algae Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Vaccinium Myrtillus Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Citrus Limonum Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Extract, Amaranthus Caudatus Extract, Acer Saccharinum Extract, Nymphaea Alba Extract, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Lecitin | bleftening | Mass Market | [74 | |
Hedera helix | ] | |||||||||
saponins (hederin, hederagenin, hederacosides, hederacolchisides etc.), flavonoids, anthocyanins, coumarins and phenolic acids, steroids, vitamins, volatile and fixed oils | [178] | antiseptic, anti-elastase and anti-hyaluronidase effect indicated in cellulitis, cicatrisation, and wound healing [102][178][179] | ||||||||
Honey Extract Propolis Extract |
antimicrobial and immunomodulatory effect, antioxidant capacity, wound healing (stimulates angiogenesis, granulation, epithelialization, TNF-α (tumor necrosis factor-α) production, increasing collagen and fibroblasts synthesis), emollient, humectant, moisturizing, nourishing and protective effects against photo-ageing, restoration capacity of skin barrier function [334][335][336][337][338][339][340][341 | contact dermatitis | [178] | ] | contact dermatitis, acute sensitization [335][340][341] | Makeup cosmetics | ILLAMASQUA (UK) HYPNOTICA Lipe Lure Colour intense Liquid lipstick |
NaHA | N | long-wearing, picture-perfect finish |
Lilium candidum | saponins, flavonoids, glycosides, nitrogenous compounds [180][181] | amelioration of skin redness, burn healing, hyperpigmentation, edema/skin inflammation anti-irritant, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant effect, and also emollient and sebostatic effect capacity of reducing ecchymosis, providing keratinocytes proliferation [102][180][182][ | Premium Market | 183] | [ | 75] | ||||
no irritations in vitro dermal or ocular irritation model | [ | 184 | ] | |||||||
Other Chemical Compounds | CLINIQUE (USA) Sun-Kissed Face Gelee Complexion multitasker |
|||||||||
Magnolia liliflora | terpenes, flavonoids, chlorogenic acid, rutin, quercetin, kaempferol, volatile oil (phenyethyl alcohol, levoxine, pinene, caryophyllene oxide, caryophyllene, bourbonene, farnesene, aerpineol, humulene) [185][186][187] | |||||||||
Allantoin (5-ureidohydantoin) |
anti-inflammatory effect and anti-irritation, wound healing and keratolytic properties, hydration effect, tissue regeneration and cell proliferation capacity [342][343] | antioxidant capacity, anti-dermatophytes action, anti-inflammatory effect [185][186 | no adverse effects [343]][187] | * N | ||||||
Malus domestica/sylvestris | polyphenols (phloridizin, phloretin, quercetin, glycosides, rutin), acids (citric, malic, lactic, pyruvic, ascorbic etc.) [188][ | |||||||||
Ceramide 3 | increases SC hydration, enhances the barrier function and reduces inflammation [344]189][[190] | 345]confers cell protection, anti-ageing and photoprotective effect, antioxidant capacity increases moisture, reduces tyrosinase activity (depigmentation effect) [189][ |
safe for use in cosmetic products [346]190][191][192] | absence of skin irritation of a cosmetic product containing 6% Malus sylvestris fruit extract under 24 h occlusive patch testing [189] | ||||||
Malva sylvestris | mucilaginous polysaccharides, tannins, polyphenols, vitamin C, vitamin E, β-carotene, anthocyanidines, terpenes, naphthoquinones, flavonoids, fatty acids (e.g., α-linolenic acid) and minerals [102][193][194][195][196][197][198] | |||||||||
Gold | anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effect, tissue regeneration capacity, restores skin elasticity, reduces signs of stress and ageing [347][348][349][199] |
anti-pruritus, anti-psoriatic and antiseptic effect emollient, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial capacity wound healing (stimulates the formation of free granulation tissue and reepithelization) [ |
particles larger than 30 nm can be considered as safe but there is a need to comprehensively study the effects of gold nanoparticles on the basis of their size distribution for their safe application in cosmetics [348]102][193][194][195][196][197][199] | low toxicity of Malva sylvestris hydro-alcoholic extract on topical application [200] | ||||||
Nymphaea alba | polyphenols, flavonoids, essential oil, vitamin E, ellagitannins, sterols, fatty acids [201][202][203] | |||||||||
Lactic acid | primarily used as moisturizer and pH regulator in cosmetics, antimicrobial activity, skin lightening effect, keratolytic properties, possesses high water-binding capacity, antibacterial effect [350][351] peeling agent used in the amelioration of acne vulgaris and in the treatment of melasma [352] | stimulates the autophagy (reduces the accumulation of advanced glycation end products which determine inflammatory response, destroys the protein structureand colors the skin in yellow or brown) antioxidant and photo-protection capacity reduces the hyperpigmentation |
good skin compatibility, showing only minor reactions [351][202][204] | * N | ||||||
Opuntia cochenillifera | flavonoids, terpenes, cellulose, hemicellulose, lignins, pectines, malic acid, citric acid, ascorbic acid, oligosaccharides (fructose, glucose, sucrose, maltose etc.), amino-acids, fatty-acids [205][206][207][208] | antioxidant capacity, immunomodulation, hydration and cooling effects, wound healing [206] | ||||||||
Lecithin | antioxidant effect, dispersing agent for pigments [353] | [207] | * N | |||||||
safe as used in rinse-off products | safe for use in leave-on products at concentrations of 15% insufficient data to determine the safety for use in cosmetic products where Lecithin or Hydrogenated Lecithin are likely to be inhaled [353] |
Orchid sp. | flavonoids, anthocyanins, fatty acids, organic acids, sterols, stilbenoids (resveratrol), amino-acids [209] | |||||||
Malachite Extract | a copper complex extracted from the malachite stone, being a powerful free radical scavenger, boosting cellular defenses, offering protection and detoxifying benefits [354[210][211] | ]anti-inflammatory effect, antioxidant capacity, anti-tyrosinase activity, inhibits collagenase and elastase photo-protection, wound healing capacity cooling agent astringent, anti-ageing, emollient, skin moisturizing and whitening effect [209][210][212][213] |
allergic contact dermatitis [214] | |||||||
* N | Pfaffia paniculata | saponins (pfaffosides), pfaffic acid, sterols, allantoin [180][215] | ||||||||
Sodium Pyrrolidone Carboxylate | skin moisturizing effect [355] | anti-inflammatory and anti-cellulite effect, antioxidant capacity, protective effect against photo-ageing [180][215] |
* N | |||||||
safe in cosmetics | non-irritating in a reconstructed human epidermis model test using the EpiSkin model [356] | Picea abies | diterpene, stilbene glycosides (E-astringin, E-isorhapontin, flavonoids (catechin, taxifolin, taxifolin-3′-O-glucoside), lignin (pinoresinol) phenolic acid derivates, saccharose [216][217] | antioxidant capacity, antibacterial activity inhibits collagenase (anti-ageing activity), elastase (anti-ageing, anti-inflammatory and anti-psoriatic effect) and tyrosinase (whitening activity) wound healing and skin regeneration properties (cellular regeneration and epithelialization) [216][217][218][219][220] |
possible allergic skin reactions (e.g., contact dermatitis) [220] | |||||
Superoxide Dismutase (SOD) | reduces UV-induced erythema, free radical scavenger, anti-irritant effect, anti-ageing capacity [357] |
non-irritating and non-sensitizing [357] | Porphyridium cruentum | exopolysaccharide, phycoerythrins, phycoerythrocyanins, phycocyanins, sterols, superoxide dismutase, polyunsaturated fatty acids [221][222][223] | ||||||
Urea | humectant, decreases TEWL in normal skin and especially in xerotic skin disorders (AD patients) [358] moisturizing effect, desquamating actions (urea dissolves the intercellular cementing substance in the SC), antimicrobial action [359][360][361] | antioxidant capacity, anti-inflammatory, anti-redness effect restores skin barrier permeability, photo-protection, regenerative and anti-wrinkles effect natural dye for cosmetics (creams, powders, lipsticks, make-up, eye shadows) [222][223][224][225][226] |
safe as used in cosmetic products * N | |||||||
[ | 359 | ]. | Ptychopetalum olacoides | fatty acids, saponins, flavonoids (rutin), sterols, aromatic oil, alkaloids, lupeol [180][227] | antioxidant capacity, anti-cellulite effect [180] |
* N | ||||
Punica granatum | anthocyanins, ellagic acid, tannins [120] | improves viscoelasticity, anti-ageing effect, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant capacity antimicrobial activity [120][228][229] |
no adverse effects [230] | |||||||
Rosa sp. (R. damascena, R. canina, R. centifolia, R. davurica, R. mosqueta, R. rugosa) |
carotenoids, sterols, anthocyanins, catechins, polyphenolic compounds (tocopherol), vitamin C, fatty acids (trans-retinoic acid, arachidonic acid, and unsaturated fatty acids, such as oleic, linoleic and linolenic acids) [231][232] | anti-inflammatory effect (suppressing proinflammatory cytokines) [233][234][235][236] antibacterial against skin bacteria (Propionibacterium acnes) [233][234][235][236][237] antioxidant capacity [234][236][238] antiproliferative and chemopreventive effects [234] fragrance in the perfumery industry [239] |
well tolerate [240] no toxicity on human keratinocyte HaCaT cells [233] contact dermatitis to Rosa mosqueta oil applied for 3 days [232] |
|||||||
Rosmarinus officinalis | triterpes (rosmarinic acid, oleanolic acid, ursolic acid) [116][241] | antioxidant capacity, photoprotective effect, anti-aging, wound healing, anti-inflammatory, increases skin elasticity, wrinkles reducing effect [101][241][242] |
eczema, contact dermatitis [116][243] | |||||||
Rubus chamaemorus | ellagitannins, proanthocyanidins, fenolic acids, flavonoids, lignans, vitamin C, fatty acids (oleic, linoleic, linolenic etc.) [244] | antioxidant capacity antimicrobial effect (Staphylococcus aureus skin infections) reduces periorbital inflammations and ameliorates pruritus [244][245] |
no irritation after an 48 h occlusive patch testin of a cosmetic product incorporating 2.5% Rubus chamaemorus Seed Oil (25 μL testing product quantity) [246] | |||||||
Saccharum officinarum | fatty acids, fatty alcohols, acids, esters, aldehydes, ketones, sterols, terpoides, phenolic acids, flavonoids (flavones glycosides) [247][248][249] | antioxidant capacity, anti-tyrosinase activity photo-protection effect [248][249] |
low toxicity after in vitro cytotoxicity assay [248] | |||||||
Sambucus nigra | phenolic acids (caffeic, chlorogenic, ferulic, rosmarinic), flavonoids (quercetin, rutin, kaempferol), anthocyanins, tannins, triterpenes, organic acids [250]262][263][264] | antioxidant capacity, photo-protection, anti-melanin and anti-tyrosinase activity (skin-whitening) [262][263][264][265] | * N | |||||||
Triticum aestivum | oligosaccharides [266] | stimulates hyaluronan synthase, fibronectin synthesys, restores the skin barrier integrity (wound healing: decubitus ulcers, skin lesions and burns), anti-inflammatory effect, antioxidant capacity [266][267][268][269] | possible hypersensitivity reactions [270] | |||||||
Ulmus davidiana | saccharides (galactose, rhamnose, glucose), succinic acid, terpenoids (epifriedenalol), lignans, flavonoids (catechin) [271][272][273] | 272] | * N | |||||||
289 | ][290] | moisturizing, photoprotective, anti-ageing, anti-allergic and anti-inflammatory effect [271] | Vaccinium myrtillus | anthocyanins (cyanidin, delphinidin, malvidin, peonidin, petunidin), flavonoids, phenolic acids [274] | antioxidant capacity, photoprotective and anti-inflammatory effect (anti-psoriatic, anti-erythematous), astringent properties, wound healing, restores and protects the skin barrier function [274][275][276][277][278][279] |
* N | ||||
[ | [ | Vitis vinifera | polyphenols (resveratrol, anthocyanins), coumarn, carotenoids, flavonoids, tartaric acid, tannins, terpene alcohols [280][281][282] | anti-ageing effect, antioxidant capacity, anti-melanogenic activities, sunscreen protection [101][120][282][283] |
allergic dermatitis [280][284] | |||||
Voandzeia subterranean | alkaloids, flavonoids, glycosides, saponins, steroids, triterpenoids, phenols, anthocyanins, carotenoids proteins, crude fiber, carbohydrates [285][286] |
anti-wrinkle effects, photoprotective, anti-irritant, anti-pollution, hydrating effects, antioxidant capacity, anti-ageing activity, inhibits proteases, elastases, collagenases and catalase [287] |
* N |